Your model number seems short several digits, I can find no info on it.

Not sure what you mean by a sensor.
If it is a 2 wire thermostat/fuse then it is your problem but cannot tell for sure without a wiring diagram.

I cannot recommend bypassing it as I am not sure what you are referring to.

But if I assume it is the thermal fuse.
If it is blown also replace the hi-limit thermostat as this should have regulated the temperature so this fuse did not blow. They often come as a set.
Only proviso on this is if the original heater was grounded, if it was then the thermostat cannot regulate the temperature and therefore blew the fuse so the hi-limit is probably OK.

Grounded element:
Unplug the unit
Remove both wires from the heating element and check it, should be around 10 ohms.
Then check from each connector to the heater case both should be open, if not you have a grounded element.
If both are open visually inspect the element just to be sure that it is not heating up, sagging and then touching the case. Ypu may be able to see an arc mark.

If the fuse is blown check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue, check that the drum seals are OK, check that the seals in the heat path are OK, clean/check the blower wheel and clean/check the vent system.

Many units have the operating thermostat on the blower so if it sucks in room air it will run the dryer on high and not cycle.
If you cannot find a cause for the fuse blowing I would also replace the operating thermostat as it's contacts may be welded together.

NOTE: getting these parts should not be a problem with a correct model number.

Still could not find any info.
I did find that there is a Kenmore 110.66912691 unit.
This is a Whirlpool product.
Then took it's circuit board number and cross referenced that and came up with a LEQ8857 Whirlpool model. Your unit is probably close to it.
http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%203977704.pdf

In this case the thermal fuse on the heater assembly.

Note: I am sort of shooting in the dark here but my earlier post still applies.

Thanks for your help!!

magician59
To be honest I am not sure how well it works as I do not do it very often
It is a bit of a pain.

Also I usually don't get feedback on whether it was a match.

But if the unit has a couple parts like a circuit board and a timer and the control console looks the same odds are that the wiring will be at least close.