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My dryer will not heat. I checked the jumper wire and it is ok. What is the most common problem?

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2009, 12:40 PM
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Default Dryer Will Not Heat
Model Number: MDE8400AYW   Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


My dryer will not heat. I checked the jumper wire and it is ok. What is the most common problem? Heating Element, Hi Lo Limit Thermostat or Thermal Fuse?

Randy


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2009, 05:14 AM
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Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDE8400AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a manual, note it is for similar models not this specific model.
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16023110.pdf

I checked the jumper wire and it is ok.
Not sure what you mean by jumper wire.

What is the most common problem?
Heating Element - this would be at the top of the list
Hi Lo Limit Thermostat - also a possibility along with the cycling thermostat.
Thermal Fuse - not possible as the fuses in this unit kill power to the motor

First try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes it can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heater requires the full 240 volts. Better yet measure it at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.

Also unplug the unit and check the wiring at the unit's terminal block to ensure a wire has not burned off.

Next unplug the unit and check the heating coil.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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