[gbeck04]

The dryer will tumble but won't heat. I've checked the circuit breaker box and flipped the appropriate switch and it still doesn't heat. It could still be the heating element, thermal fuse, or thermastat but I don't know how to check or replace those. Is there an easy way to see if they need to be replaced? Are there diagrams that show how to do this with detailed instructions?

Thanks,

Gbeck04

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for AMANA LEM847W Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

I could not find a wiring diagram for your unit, if you do not have it check inside the control console often it is in there. Below is a diagram that can be used as an example it is considerably different from yours.
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16027534.pdf
Note that it does not have a fluorescent light and does have a separate permanent press switch

Here is a manual which may help unforetunately it does not include wiring diagrams and is confusing as it covers many different units.
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag.../RS3200001.pdf

The dryer will tumble but won't heat. I've checked the circuit breaker box and flipped the appropriate switch and it still doesn't heat.
Best way is to check the voltage at the plug with a meter as you may have a faulty breaker or a house wiring problem.
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.


It could still be the heating element, thermal fuse, or thermastat but I don't know how to check or replace those. Is there an easy way to see if they need to be replaced?
Unplug the unit and check the wiring at the unit's terminal block to be sure that a wire has not burned off here.
An easy and safe way is with a meter as you can check them with the unit unplugged.
The heater can often be inspected visually and you will see that the element has broken.

Are there diagrams that show how to do this with detailed instructions?
The reason I chose the above wiring diagram is that from the parts breakdown your unit only has one thermal fuse, has a 3 wire thermostat and has a separate thermostat heater.
The thermal fuse should be OK as it would kill power to the motor.
On the operating thermostat you have 3 connectors. One will be the Common, one the Normally Open and one the Normally Closed. It is the Common to Normally Closed that should be 0 ohms at room temperature.
The hi-limit thermostat should be 0 ohms at room temperature.

I hope the above helps and that I have not confused the livin out of you.
It really is not that complicated but is hard to explain without a wiring diagram.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[gbeck04]

Okay, I've got my dryer disassembled and have the drum out and can see the thermostat and heater. Where is the heating element and how can you tell if it is broken? How exactly do I check to see if the thermostat isn't working? If I replace the thermostat do I have to replace the Heater, thermostat, part#AP4070513 and the thermostat part#AP4291810. or just one or the other?