[TimN]

I have checked all parts for continuity (ie; motor relay, Heat relay, high limit thermostat, thermal cut-off, Thermal fuse, Thermistor, contrifugal switch, Timer, moisture sensor, end of cycle switch, fabric care temperature switch and heater element). I know that my PTS switch doesn't stay "On" when I press the button. I have tried to hold this button on for 10-15 seconds and I still don't see the heating element getting hot, but the dryer still has cool air going through the system, could this be the cause of "No heat"? I couldn't check the Control Board for continuity. Is there a way I can check to see if this is the part that is damaged or broken?
Thank you

TimN

[gabe_1981]

Please check to make sure you have 240 volts at your wall outlet ... If half the breaker is tripped the dryer motor will still run with 120 volts ... You need 240 volts to run the heating element.

[TimN]

I just confirmed that the dryer has 240 volts at the outlet and at the connection on the dryer

[denman]

Here is the tech sheet just in case you do not have it
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%203979540.pdf

I have checked all parts for continuity (ie; Heat relay)
I am assuming you checked the relay coils for continuity. The coils on a relay can be OK but their contacts may be bad. I believe that the motor relay and the heater relay are the same. If you can confirm they are the same, swap them. If the unit then does not run when you release the PTS then you know the heat relay contacts are toast.
I am also assuming that when you checked the components, you removed the wires from least one side to ensure that you were not reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.

I know that my PTS switch doesn't stay "On" when I press the button. I have tried to hold this button on for 10-15 seconds and I still don't see the heating element getting hot, but the dryer still has cool air going through the system, could this be the cause of "No heat"?
No. The PTS sounds like it is OK. The motor relay closes and this keeps the motor running when the switch is released, re: contacts are in parallel with the PTS.

I couldn't check the Control Board for continuity. Is there a way I can check to see if this is the part that is damaged or broken?
I am not sure what voltage is applied to the relay coil. It should say on the relay. Check to see if you get voltage at P3-1 to P3-2 when it shoud be heating. If not then it is probably the board as you have eliminated everything else.

[TimN]

Hi Denman,
I already tried switching the motor and heat relays... they are identical, same problem.
I don't see what voltage the relay coil should have... the relay only says 240volt on it. I tried checking the voltage on the plug connected to the board when it should be heating (unplugged it and put the ohm meter on the connections) and it gave me 2.3 on it. I think you confirmed that it is the board that is bad... just by the that final test? Don't you think?

[denman]

When I took a second look at the tech sheet I noticed it said "Evenheat" on the console and remembered the following
http://www.applianceaid.com/evenheat.html

I think you confirmed that it is the board that is bad... just by the that final test? Don't you think?
Yes I agree with you that odds are very high on the board being toast.
You have done a thorough job checking everything else so that is all that is left.
Before ordering a board I would pull it and check the solder side for a loose connection or bad solder joint in the area of P3 and the tracks on the board to 1 and 2 pins. Who knows you might get lucky.