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Joined: 11/21/2009(UTC)
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We just moved and our Whirlpool electric dryer LEN2000KQ1 stopped heating. It goes through all cycles fine, only with zero heat. I found a similar thread regarding the same model and went through the following steps: 1. Make sure one of the circuit breakers is not tripped (CHECK) 2. Make sure dryer gets 220 volts at the wall socket (CHECK) 3. Unplug the dryer and check the main terminal block for damage (this is where the power cord is attached) (CHECK) 4. Check the thermal fuse for continuity with an ohmmeter (fuse is number 7 on this diagram) (CHECK) 5. Check the heating element for continuity (heater is number 17 on the same diagram) (CHECK) 6. Check thermal cut-off for continuity (number 9 on the same diagram) (CHECK)Everything checked out ok. Still no heat! Any other ideas? Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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Sounds like you did not check the one that is most likely, this one which is connected to your heater coil terminals.
AP3131941
Also check the operating thermostat.
If you did, then everything is ok on the parts side and you have some wiring to check, but go over everything again just to make sure.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/21/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4
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Thanks for responding. Here are today's results/questions
Its entirely possible I am not checking the right connections.
Heating element: checked the two terminals coming just outside the casing. Result: continuity went down to 10, not zero like the expected outcome.
High Limit Thermostat (#15 from diagram - AP3131941): Connected to one of the terminals from the heating element. Continuity went down to 10.
Operating thermostat: Is #8 the correct part from the diagram? Internal Thermostat AP3045874? This has 2 sets of terminals. The outer set (farther apart) with lower gauge wires show continuity of 0. The inner set (closer together) with higher gauge wires does not register continuity. The digital reader stays on the default "1." These two terminals are also a different color...copper...if that matters.
Thermal Fuse & Thermal Cut-off: Both show continuity of 0.
What are your thoughts about the reading from the heating element, high limit thermostat, and the operating thermostat?
Thanks again!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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Ok
1. You need to disconnect the wires from the high limit thermostat to test continuity. Because it is connected to the heating element terminals you seem to be reading Ohms through the heating element.
2. Sounds like your operating thermostat is bad. It is number 8.
3. Your heating element seems fine, but take it off and manually inspect it. Gently rub the coils to see if there is any break, as it is sometimes hard to see, but I do not think you have one.
A bad operating thermostat and/or bad high limit thermostat allows the machine to operate, but with no heat, so one of those should be your problem. Given their low cost it is not the worst thing in the world if you replace both.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/21/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4
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Managed to disconnect the high limit thermostat from the heating element (was scared I was going to break one of the terminals). Continuity was fine.
So you think its the two bias terminals that don't register when checking continuity that makes that part defective?
Unfortunately, there are no repair/parts stores in my area open on Sunday. Will have to wait until tomorrow to check.
Thanks again for your help!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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You are welcome
Well, according to Sherlock Holmes when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever is left, however improbable must be the truth, so I am thinking that if you are sure you are getting 120v to each side of the connection block, the heater coil is ok, the high limit therm is ok then it must be the operating thermostat. Otherwise there is some weird wiring issue which you don't want because it might be difficult to find.
Let us know how it goes, a lot of folks are looking in.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/21/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4
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Can you walk me through checking to make sure I have 120V to each side of the connection block? All I checked was the outlet and am not sure how to check what was suggested.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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Sure. Use your meter to see if you have 120v between the left connector and the middle, which is the neutral. Then check to see if you have the same thing between the right terminal on the block and the middle.
Since you have power at the outlet this will confirm that you do not have a break inside the cord from the outlet to the dryer, which is probably not the case but always a good idea to check out.
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