[eric harron]

i have a whirpool electric dryer that spins and runs but no heat! i have replaced the heating element and the thermostat Still NO heat plz help!!

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER4634EQ2 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER4634EQ2 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Have you flipped the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually ripping the breaker. The heater requires the full 240 volts while the motor and timer will run on only half the line.
Better yet measure it with a meter. L1 to L2 should be 240 volts.

Could be the thermal heater's thermal fuse is blown.
This is the one on the heater Item 6 in Section 3.

If it is blown check to ensure you have good air flow out of the unit and the interior seals are good. Also clean/check your vent system.
You are actually pulling air over the heating coils, through the drum and then pushing it out the vent. The operating (cycling) thermostat is on the blower so if you are sucking in room air in the heater path to blower, it sees a cooler temperature and runs the heater hot.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[jnelson1115@hotmail.com]

I have a Whirlpool Dryer, LER4634EQ2, that is running, but supplies no heat. I have tested the supply voltage at L1&L2 and on timer inputs and I am getting 248 volts. I have checked for continuity on heat element, high limit, thermal cut-off, dryer cycle thermostat, thermal fuse with a digital meter totally disconnected from all power and wire sources and each item checks out fine for continuity. However, on the cycle thermostat I have continuity except across the internal bias heater.
Can you tell me what the problem is?

[jnelson1115@hotmail.com]

Hope this message is received.

Originally Posted by jnelson1115@hotmail.com

I have a Whirlpool Dryer, LER4634EQ2, that is running, but supplies no heat. I have tested the supply voltage at L1&L2 and on timer inputs and I am getting 248 volts. I have checked for continuity on heat element, high limit, thermal cut-off, dryer cycle thermostat, thermal fuse with a digital meter totally disconnected from all power and wire sources and each item checks out fine for continuity. However, on the cycle thermostat I have continuity except across the internal bias heater.
Can you tell me what the problem is?

[denman]

Looks like I messed up on my earlier post.
Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%203406688.pdf

However, on the cycle thermostat I have continuity except across the internal bias heater.
This should have no effect on getting heat though the drier will only provide high heat. I would double check this to be sure it is the internal heater that is open and not the thermostat contacts.

Set the unit at timed dry mid cycle and check that the TIMER SWITCH 2 contacts are closed.

If OK then all that is left is either a broken wire or the centrifugal switch on the motor.

You could attach (tape) one meter lead to L1 (black) on the timer then leave that lead there and then work your way back through the heater circuit. Component be component till you gat to the far side of the heater.
If all OK then all that is left is one of the wires to the centrifugal switch or the switch itself.

Note it could the the switch or the mechanism which closes it.
Though normally the motor will overheat if it is the mechanism as the Start/Run switch will also not activate leaving the start winding in circuit.