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THIS IS A 'PICKLE', on my dryer repair

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Our reconditioned "Whirlpool Estate" dryer purchased 8 years ago used died this past weekend. My wife said it was just

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Old 02-02-2018, 06:35 PM
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Default THIS IS A 'PICKLE', on my dryer repair
Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Our reconditioned "Whirlpool Estate" dryer purchased 8 years ago used died this past weekend. My wife said it was just "blowing out cold air". I checked, as any male would to verify the problem, and she was right! I suspected the heating element, ... figured as long as I had the back off, I'd replace the thermal fuse along with the heat element. I did so, still no heat.
Then I replace the high temp cut off sensor, as well as the other one, as they come in a kit. I was positive this was going to solve our dilemma. I was wrong, ... again no heat I've replace 4 parts on this machine with simply nothing as an end result. Checked the two sensors and element with a multi-meter, all showed they were fine, as was the thermal fuse. What should I check next> The machine runs, just won't operate as a dryer at this time. Perhaps an expensive "leaf-blower" on the secondary market?

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Old 02-04-2018, 02:13 AM
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The first thing I do on any dryer call with a no heat complaint, is check for 240 volts to the back of the dryer.

Then with the dryer set on high heat and at the beginning of the timed drying cycle, I check for 240 on the elements terminals.

Then I work my way back through all the components involved with heating.

You need to check your timer, if you have one. I wouldn't know because you failed to supply a model number so I could look it up.
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Old 02-06-2018, 04:29 PM
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Thank you for your reply "ThatGuy". Took a bit of looking up, but I found the model number. IT's a Whirlpool Estate, Model#: TEDS740PQO

I checked the line and breakers, all were fine, as was the 240 voltage coming into the line connections on the back. I didn't get involved with the timer dial, as I've had the flu. My wife is ready to purchase another used machine from a local appliance store, have to admit I wouldn't mind if she did so at this point. If the dryer is getting 240 current, (as this soon to be gone machine operates, just won't heat) ... wouldn't it heat up with a different setting upon the timer? Admit I'm stupid when it comes to these things. as I initially thought it to be an easy fix with either the thermal fuse and element, or the high and low sensor cut off, but not so.
Hope you don't get this illness, my first bought of a true flu in perhaps 8 years. Today is my first real day up and about, out of bed! Thanks again for your reply.
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Old 02-06-2018, 05:08 PM
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Look at this diagram. Did you say that you had changed out part 7 and 8?

Parts for Estate TEDS740PQ0: Bulkhead Parts - AppliancePartsPros.com

If so, its probably the timer. It could be the motor centrifugal switch, but that almost never fails.

If you have the wiring diagram you can test the timer or if you take it loose and shake it and if it rattles inside its most likely bad. Burnt contacts inside.

Whirlpool WP8299778 Timer - AppliancePartsPros.com

Sorry you've been sick. I got sick back in December and it took most of six weeks to get over it. Just don't let it turn into pneumonia on you.
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Old 02-07-2018, 01:11 PM
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When you plug in the power cord most of the older design timers start the timer to run the small 110 volt motor even before you push the dial or start switch to activate the unit. If you plug it in to the power without pushing the start button or dial you should be able to hear the small motor running. It is very quiet so you have listen carefully. If it is turning the dial very very slowly and nothing happens the plastic gears inside are likely damaged. If it turns the dial and no heat is available the contacts inside are likely the problem . These can sometimes be repaired but it is difficult.
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Old 02-09-2018, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorning View Post
When you plug in the power cord most of the older design timers start the timer to run the small 110 volt motor even before you push the dial or start switch to activate the unit. If you plug it in to the power without pushing the start button or dial you should be able to hear the small motor running. It is very quiet so you have listen carefully. If it is turning the dial very very slowly and nothing happens the plastic gears inside are likely damaged. If it turns the dial and no heat is available the contacts inside are likely the problem . These can sometimes be repaired but it is difficult.
You know what works even better?

Testing the contacts with a multi-meter. And no, they can't be repaired, unless you have new contacts and can somehow un-crimp the old ones and remove them without destroying the timer.
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Old 02-09-2018, 05:29 PM
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I want to say "thank you", for all who've replied to my posting on this dryer situation. I need to inform however, ... the end came yesterday. After a prolonged inability to perform, it became evident it was time to let it go.
I looked into it's 'lint-filter', ... it puffed a small amount of residual dust into my face. It got into my eyes and created a tear. I knew what it was trying to tell me, that being "Let me Go"! With a sniffle and a wipe of my eye, I replaced it's lint filter into it's slot for the last time. I patted it down as I ensured it's cover was closed. With a lump in my throat, and a final fair-well, ... I pulled it's plug.
It passed quietly, ... never recovering from it's first bout of 'non-heat'. It served us well, ... but our laundry room will never be the same without our Whirlpool Estate dryer. So yesterday, (actually 2 days ago), ... we purchased another machine, a 'pre-used' reconditioned Kenmore from our local used appliance store. They even picked up our past friend to re-cycle, or strip for parts. I wonder if used appliances have an 'organ bank'. Anyone out there think so?
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