Dryer flame cycling on and off


Dryer Repair

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I have a whirlpool cabrio dryer that is about 10 years old. It will start up and the igniter will

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Old 10-11-2017, 09:13 PM
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Default Dryer flame cycling on and off
Model Number: WGD6400SW0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have a whirlpool cabrio dryer that is about 10 years old. It will start up and the igniter will glow and the flame will kick on and run for about 30 seconds and then it will kick off.

The dryer keeps running and blowing with no heat for a few minutes and then the igniter will glow again and the flame will light for about 10 seconds and then shut off. This continues for the entire cycle of the dryer.

I have taken off the vent and checked for obstructions and there are none. What else should I check? I have been doing some reading and would like to know how I can determine if it is perhaps the gas valve coils/solenoids or the temp sensors/thermostats. It seems it cannot be the thermal fuse since the gas lights for a brief time and it also seems it cannot be the igniter since it glows and will light the gas for a time, but I could be wrong and any help in determining what is wrong would be appreciated.

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2017, 01:05 PM
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Just bumping the post to see if anyone might have some advice on how to diagnose things after a couple of days. I am guessing that it is more likely the cycling thermostat since the igniter is working and the gas is coming on and lighting for a brief period. If the gas coils were bad - wouldn't it not light up at all? or could it be the flame sensor that is not reading a flame and so shutting off the gas (even when the flame is present?). I am just a guy who is comfortable tinkering, but I have no specific experience with dryers and I am just thinking through steps and my logic might be off. Again, any help on how to properly diagnose my machine would be appreciated.
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2017, 10:28 AM
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Default still working on this...

I have tested the thermal fuse and it has continuity. I have tested the high and cycling thermostat for continuity and they both have continuity. Is there another way to test these? I have only found the suggestion to test them for continuity on the sticky on this forum. I also tested the thermistor and it reads about 10K resistance at room temp which is what it is supposed to read according to other information I found on sears parts direct. I also went ahead and replaced the gas coils and the igniter as at least maintenance issues and the things that most others (even with slightly different symptoms) have found to be the things most likely to be faulty...even though I was able to test them and read resistances of about 1300 across the coil with two terminals and then on the one with 3 terminals I got 576 for the two outside terminals and then 1969 and 1392 for the terminals 1 to 2 and then 2 to 3. Those all seemed about right. The resistance on the igniter was 71 ohms and could not find specific info about that one. It glowed and lit the gas, but if it is bad would it cause the gas to not stay lit? Anyway, I decided to replace them like I said as a general maintenance job and items that can go bad with use. I just want to learn so I can get better at diagnosing things.

My problem with the quick cycling of the flame as described earlier seems to persist with one wet towel in the dryer and the exhaust disconnected. I will try buttoning everything up and a regular load to see what happens because I cannot think of anything else at the moment. Although no one has yet replied to my initial post except me ... I am still hopeful that someone can point me toward next steps with this dryer. Thanks in advance for any possible help!

Last edited by munciedr : 10-15-2017 at 12:40 PM.
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2017, 05:31 PM
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Well, although I have no new information about testing and what specifically was wrong...once everything was put back together it has been drying like a champ. My guess would be that it was the igniter, but that is just a guess based on the reading for resistance on that one being lower. If anyone knows what the resistance on that should have been...that would be appreciated. Anyway, in case my problem and then subsequent exploration and results will help anyone else - here it is.
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