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Samsung Dryer - No Heat

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All, Inherited the above Electric Dryer with the purchase of our house. The dryer was less than 3 years old

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Old 06-06-2017, 11:12 AM
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Default Samsung Dryer - No Heat
Model Number: DV42H5000EW/A3   Brand: Samsung   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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All,
Inherited the above Electric Dryer with the purchase of our house. The dryer was less than 3 years old when we bought the house according to the old owners.

The dryer experienced a no Heat scenario about 6 months in from us owning and we called the house warranty people to fix it. The deductible later ($60) and we were good to go.

They replaced the whole heating element assembly (I still have the old one in the garage).

A little over a year later we have the same scenario.

Now I am about to dig into this thing myself. I have worked on gas dryers a few times over the years but my curiosity is this normal for electric dryers (first electric)...Seems like two heating elements in a few years time seems excessive. Anything to look out for if replacing complete assembly again?

I do see there are lifetime assemblies out there...Does anyone know Appliance Part Pros warranty?

Exhaust vent is and was clean...just quit in last load of laundry type of thing... We do one load a day on average.

Thanks
Chris


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2017, 08:44 PM
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It's a Samsung, 2 elements in 2 years wouldn't surprise me at all. Sorry but their elements just suck. I do one a day on average, I doubt you'll find anyone who would warranty that part for long. It just has a long, sad history of failure.

It'll be your element itself or the thermal cutoff probably.

Whole duct: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/sa...ap4342351.html
On that pic the cutoff is the smaller component closer to the round end of the duct, about 1/2 way down lengthwise.

If you have a multimeter you can test either part easily. The simplest way is to notice that power supply to that element comes from 2 sources and comes from under outlet duct. I think they are blue and red at that point? One wire (blue?) goes to thermal cut off, loops to thermostat and then to one side of the element. The other (red) goes directly to the element. Each supplies 120V AC to the element, making 240V at the element. I may be wrong on colors; I know there's a black loop in there somewhere too, between cutoff and thermostat I think.

You are looking for little to no resistance along the chain of thermostats leading from the thermal cutoff to the element, if your meter says OL or INF it is open. You can disconnect the wires and test each component in isolation, the element itself will have resistance, the other 2 should not.

If you have the old part you may still have a good thermal cutoff on it, depending on if it or the element opened. But I'd put odds on the actual element being bad.

There are a few more exotic causes that we'll leave alone for now.

Accessing the interior is easy. You can probably find a youtube vid on it, but post back if you want instructions.

Last edited by PNWDrew : 06-08-2017 at 08:51 PM.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2017, 12:22 PM
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Default Samsung Dryer

Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWDrew View Post
It's a Samsung, 2 elements in 2 years wouldn't surprise me at all. Sorry but their elements just suck. I do one a day on average, I doubt you'll find anyone who would warranty that part for long. It just has a long, sad history of failure.

It'll be your element itself or the thermal cutoff probably.

Whole duct: Samsung DC97-14486A Heating Element Assembly - AppliancePartsPros.com
On that pic the cutoff is the smaller component closer to the round end of the duct, about 1/2 way down lengthwise.

If you have a multimeter you can test either part easily. The simplest way is to notice that power supply to that element comes from 2 sources and comes from under outlet duct. I think they are blue and red at that point? One wire (blue?) goes to thermal cut off, loops to thermostat and then to one side of the element. The other (red) goes directly to the element. Each supplies 120V AC to the element, making 240V at the element. I may be wrong on colors; I know there's a black loop in there somewhere too, between cutoff and thermostat I think.

You are looking for little to no resistance along the chain of thermostats leading from the thermal cutoff to the element, if your meter says OL or INF it is open. You can disconnect the wires and test each component in isolation, the element itself will have resistance, the other 2 should not.

If you have the old part you may still have a good thermal cutoff on it, depending on if it or the element opened. But I'd put odds on the actual element being bad.

There are a few more exotic causes that we'll leave alone for now.

Accessing the interior is easy. You can probably find a youtube vid on it, but post back if you want instructions.
Thanks for the reply...Its good to know we have an inferior product...

I am looking thru the receipts as we may still have a year warranty from the house warranty people.

The lifetime unit I was talking about can be found here;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKDEOKW...5/?tag=hyprod-

If the house warranty people do not come thru then I will pick up the above.

Thanks
Chris
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Old 06-09-2017, 01:19 PM
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With the high rate of failure it makes sense that somebody would attempt to make a non OEM version.
If the home warranty thing doesn't cover it I would still open it up and verify that the element or the cutoff has failed. There were a batch of their motors that had failed centrifugal switches and were not sending power over to the element.
So if you end up doing it yourself verify those thermostats or element as the issue.

What's sad is that it's not just Samsung products but across the industry quality has decreased dramatically in the past decade. I repair all brands and there's no one brand I would recommend for all appliances.
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Old 06-09-2017, 02:44 PM
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PNWDrew,
I agree on the quality...cheaper and disposable is the model now...
Price does not seem to change things much for the consumer. The consumer may throw a few more bucks at it to keep it going cause it cost them more....but even that now is highly debatable.

Thanks for the information!
Chris
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