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fixingdryer  
#1 Posted : Saturday, August 15, 2015 6:50:01 PM(UTC)
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fixingdryer

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Quick question regarding checking other components when one has failed, in this case the heating element coil had burned through and is visually broke, I decided I would opt for replacing the whole heating element instead of just trying to re-coil the old element with a kit. Since I had it open, I wanted to test continuity on the 4-wire thermostat, safety thermostat, and thermal fuse. These 3 are all directly on the heating element "pan", and I disconnected the machine and all the wires going into the thermostats themselves from the power source which is also unplugged.

My main question is if I use "diode test" setting on my GE2524 (cheaper 20$ model), will the 1 represent a open circuit and when put on the terminals of the components being tested, I will be looking for a 0.00 reading to mean there is no issue with the fuse/thermostats? I had not used the lowest (200) ohms setting, and did not realize until after I had tested that it was on the diode setting, so instead of taking it back apart tonight I figured I'd just ask if that diode setting is also used to test the continuity as effectively as the lowest ohms setting for resistance?

I checked all 3 components, all 3 had the digital multi-meter go from 1 to 0.00 on the meter when placed directly on the opposing terminals, I assumed that meant all 3 were still good? Since the meter is at 1 or open on the diode setting with the leads not touching anything, I figured touching them together would bring near 0 reading since there is little resistance, and assumed that this was the same result I was looking for when testing the other 3 components, looking to get the same results as touching the leads together representing no resistance?
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fixingdryer  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, August 25, 2015 7:05:58 PM(UTC)
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fixingdryer

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#Request close

I have purchased the element assembly replacement kit from the app store, and I am just going to wing it and hope I was correct on the continuity tests being ok on the diode mode I was using and receiving 0.00 reading on the thermostats and fuse tests.

Thanks for your time and considerations regardless! Have a good evening. Great forums, I did find a lot of useful information here, albeit confusing at times for a newbie to this type of thing.
denman  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, August 26, 2015 1:48:04 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Yes the 0.00 tells you that the thermostat or fuse has continuity and the devices should be OK in this case.

Just a couple points for your future reference.

1. Even though a thermostat reads 0.00 on a diode setting the 200 ohm resistance setting is better as it tells you if the contacts are at 0 ohms. Sometimes contacts can pit and have some resistance the 200 scale will show this.
This pitting can cause a heat build up in the thermostat.
It is always good practice to short the meter leads together before starting your measurements so you know if there is a zero offset in the meter
re: with the leads shorted together the meter may read 2.0 ohms or so.

2. Also a good idea to disconnect at least one side of any device that you are measuring for resistance. This prevent you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.

3. Just because a thermostat reads 0 ohms does not totally tell you that it is good. It tells you that the thermostat contacts are closed but does not tell you thet they will open.
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fixingdryer  
#4 Posted : Thursday, August 27, 2015 11:49:55 AM(UTC)
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fixingdryer

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Yes the 0.00 tells you that the thermostat or fuse has continuity and the devices should be OK in this case.

Just a couple points for your future reference.

1. Even though a thermostat reads 0.00 on a diode setting the 200 ohm resistance setting is better as it tells you if the contacts are at 0 ohms. Sometimes contacts can pit and have some resistance the 200 scale will show this.
This pitting can cause a heat build up in the thermostat.
It is always good practice to short the meter leads together before starting your measurements so you know if there is a zero offset in the meter
re: with the leads shorted together the meter may read 2.0 ohms or so.

2. Also a good idea to disconnect at least one side of any device that you are measuring for resistance. This prevent you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.

3. Just because a thermostat reads 0 ohms does not totally tell you that it is good. It tells you that the thermostat contacts are closed but does not tell you thet they will open.


Thanks. My brother is a electrician and said he will check them for me this weekend, I will mention what I have learned anyway though. I did notice slight ohms reading when the two leads are together as you mentioned btw, I might go ahead and disconnect the wires and check them before he comes up just to see what it says.

So I can't really 100% tell its bad with just continuity test, something I noticed is my new heating element heats up fine, will cycle when on low fine like it should, but the blower is blowing all normal temperature air outside, i already cleaned the vent hole and the tube before this element replacement, and its flowing really well, but its not pulling the hot air down from outside the drum area, so its rising to the top of the dryer and making the surface too hot to touch, so I have unplugged it again.

My felt seal was not in place, so I replaced it, did not solve the lack of the blower to pull the hot air out, so I think I might need to take it completely apart again and check over it, also quick question; some thermostats had same color wires on this model, does it matter if the wires were changed in position? The only ones I had problems with were 2 wires the exact same on one thermostat, which was safety thermostat (thermal fuse). In any event it just seems like the blower is not moving the hot air out from the heating element area like it was before changing the element.

Quite odd, I have it sitting until the electrician looks at it, but I am almost confident it seems like a blower problem with pulling the hot air out, other then that the element, movement of normal temp air, and drum all seem to be working fine, no odd noises, turns fine, element cycling normally when on low, burning normal on high. I'm not using it at all after I was keeping my hand on top and felt it getting way too hot.

Thanks for the info.
denman  
#5 Posted : Friday, August 28, 2015 3:42:09 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Yes on 2 wire thermostat it does not matter which wire goes where.

Disconnect the vent from the dryer and give is a try to see ifit now exhaust hot air.
I agree with you that you will probably have to take it apart again and check all the seal is the air flow path.
Also check that the drum is sitting correctly.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
fixingdryer  
#6 Posted : Friday, August 28, 2015 5:38:03 AM(UTC)
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fixingdryer

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Yes on 2 wire thermostat it does not matter which wire goes where.

Disconnect the vent from the dryer and give is a try to see ifit now exhaust hot air.
I agree with you that you will probably have to take it apart again and check all the seal is the air flow path.
Also check that the drum is sitting correctly.


Thanks for your tips denman, I have fixed it. The problem was on the 4 wire thermostat, i had two wires mixed up, there is one wire with two plugs on it, I had the alternate one set on the bottom instead on the top and side like it was supposed to be as in this picture below:

UserPostedImage

That picture shows the correct orientation, since they were all the same colors I had only known the copper/bronze colored ones would go on the top and bottom, and the white was on the far back left, but I did not know that the second wire was supposed to be on top and the solo blue wire with copper that looks just like the other is supposed to be on the bottom of the thermostat.

I'm not sure from a technical standpoint what it was causing, if the element was just over-heating because of these mixed wires, or if this was somehow effecting the blower (since it was for some reason only blowing normal temp air and not hot like it is now).

I ran it for 2 minutes, top was barely even warm compared to being super hot after 30 seconds before when I had the wires mixed up, so glad I watched that video and noticed that I might have got one of the wires wrong, I had drew a diagram of the colors, but didn't realize the two with same colors and plug ins needed to be orientated correctly or else it would result in the dryer heating up really hot to the touch on the surface, and the blower just blowing normal temp air out of the vent, it was odd. Anyway now that its fixed, maybe its something to keep in mind when someone else is having a similar problem, a cause for the overheating in my case was the top and bottom wire mixed on the 4-wire thermostat, can't believe how little of a mistake ended up in a week of google, lol.

Thanks again guys, this thread finished. Got the element from the appliance parts pro store working fine, the wires have fixed the overheating issue, all is golden now, appreciate it!! :D
denman  
#7 Posted : Friday, August 28, 2015 6:58:42 AM(UTC)
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denman

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You are welcome.

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.


Yes you have to be careful with 3 and 4 connector thermostats.

2 of the connectors will be the thermostat's contacts.

The other 1 or 2 will be for an internal heater. This is turned on when you set a lower heat setting. it adds heat to the thermostat causing it to cycle more often and this results in a lower heat output from the main heater.

Some 3 wire can also be Common, Normally Open and Normally Closed contacts.
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