Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

New Topic Post Reply
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
TupeloWx  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, June 2, 2015 6:39:48 PM(UTC)
Quote
TupeloWx

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/2/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

I'm new to the forum so hello to everyone and thanks in advance for your help.
I'm working on my daughter's Maytag that recently stopped heating. What I've done/checked:
The heating element tests good with OHM meter. I also bumped the element housing while testing to be sure there wasn't an broken element that just happened to be touching when I checked.
When in "Fluff" there is no power to the element. When in any heat mode I have 122 volts at both sides of the element.
The thermal switch that is mounted into the heating element housing has continuity across it as well as what I assume is one mounted near the blower fan.
I can't understand the element testing good and having power but not heating. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, June 3, 2015 3:33:51 AM(UTC)
Quote
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag SDE2606AYW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Have you checked that the unit is getting 240 volts?
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

You have power at both sides of the element when referenced to Neutral or ground but Neutral is not part of the heater circuit. If you measured across the heater you would see 0 volts and therefore there is no heating.

What you need is L1 on one side of the element and L2 on the other side.
Your house electrical is two 120 volt supplies (L1 and L2) that share a common Neutral. They are 180 degrees out of phase. So when one is at negative 120 volts the other is at positive 120 volts therefore between the two you have 240 volts. This is the power for the heating element.

When you got the 120 volts at both sides of the element, was the motor running?
File Attachment(s):
SDE2606.pdf (422kb) downloaded 6 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
TupeloWx  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, June 3, 2015 7:16:42 AM(UTC)
Quote
TupeloWx

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/2/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

Denman -- thanks for your reply. When I tested the power at the element, the motor was running. I grounded one test lead and then tested each side of the heating element which tested just over 120 volts at each. We then changed the dryer to Fluff mode and as expected there was no power. Back to a heat mode and had 122 volts back at each side. Prior to that I had checked the element for continuity with both wires disconnected and the circuit was complete. While holding the leads in place the element housing was bumped in several places to, in my mind, be sure there was not just an intermittent connection and the continuity remained constant.
If I understood you correctly the power that I'm measuring at each side of the element is correct. By the way, before doing these tests I had already checked to be sure I had 240 at the outlet.
I'm lost as to what to do next. Is it possible that the element is bad even though it shows continuity?
denman  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, June 3, 2015 7:44:09 AM(UTC)
Quote
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
[COLOR="Blue"]Is it possible that the element is bad even though it shows continuity?[/COLOR]
I doubt it.

Check to make sure you have 240 volts at the units terminal strip.

Try the same test but do not start the dryer.
If you see 120 volts at the heater then you are seeing L1 voltage.

If you do not see any voltage then during the earlier test you were measuring L2 voltage. This is the side of the line that is switched in when the motor is turning through it's centrifugal switch.

I will try to explain my earlier post a little better.
Lets say everything is OK in the unit and it is running in a heat cycle if you measure the element with Neutral as the reference then you see 120 volts on each side. But one side is L1 voltage and the other side is L2 voltage. So if you measure across the element you will see 240 volts.

Now lets say that either L1 or L2 are not getting to the element. You still measure 120 at both sides of the element (as long as the element is OK) but both sides are either L1 or L2. So if you measure across the element you get 0 volts.

Even though you measure voltage at the heater and it is OK resistance wise, it will not heat up as there is not a circuit path through the heater to Neutral.

Below is a heaters circuit path:
L2
BU to BK motor's centrifugal switch
BK to Heater
HK to High limit thermostat
PU to RD cycling thermostat contacts
Rd to BU temperature switch (if it is in regular heat setting)
BU to 3 timer
3 to 4 timer
4 to BK which is L1
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
TupeloWx  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, June 3, 2015 7:49:52 AM(UTC)
Quote
TupeloWx

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/2/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

I understand better now. It'll be tonight before I can get back to her house and check it. I'll post my results. Thank you very much for your help!
fairbank56  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, June 3, 2015 7:52:32 AM(UTC)
Quote
fairbank56

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806

Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
Quote:
When in "Fluff" there is no power to the element


You should have 120vac to ground at the heater terminals even in air fluff cycle. Your missing your L2 leg. Need to check for 240vac at the power cord connection block on the dryer.

Eric
TupeloWx  
#7 Posted : Friday, June 5, 2015 8:25:17 PM(UTC)
Quote
TupeloWx

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/2/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

I've been busy and just this evening got a chance to go back and check. Interestingly enough, after turning the dryer on and starting to check the voltage at the heater, it was heating. I turned it on and off a few times and it continued working so I put everything back together. At this point --- I still don't know. Thanks much for your assistance. I realize it's likely this will occur again but will just have to wait until it's broke to fix it.
denman  
#8 Posted : Saturday, June 6, 2015 4:04:03 PM(UTC)
Quote
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
I would unplug the unit and check the connections at the terminal strip in the unit.
Could be a loose connection here.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Quick Reply Show Quick Reply
Users browsing this topic
New Topic Post Reply
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.