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We ran the dryer fairly often on Saturday and Sunday without issue. I went to dry a couple of things on Sunday night and the dryer would not start at all. I would hear a click/pop when I pushed the start button, but nothing would happen. I can hear the timer ticking and that is it. If I open the door or reset the timer, I would hear the initial click/pop at the start relay, but the dryer will not start.
The dryer is a Whirlpool WED5600SQ0, im guessing about 7 years old.
I have checked and verified to the best of my knowledge:
1. Proper 120/240 voltage at the terminal bridge
2. Continuity at the thermal fuse and thermostat
3. Lint/debris cleared at the blower wheel and there was not that much, although I did find a small stick in there but I dont think that is the cause of the issue.
4. Continuity at he start up relay when button engaged
5. Continuity at the heating element terminals (although I do notice some corrosion but I am not sure this is the cause of the no start issue, especially since I measured continuity), the heat element thermostat and fuse.
6. I also checked for continuity while start relay engaged on the timer wires from L1 to White (successful) and L1 to Tan (nothing), but I am not sure if the lack on continuity on the tan wire would cause the issue. My understanding of the wiring at the timer is fuzzy at best.
7. I took at look at drive best and did not see any breaks, it seemed to be fastened ok around the drum and at the motor, if I saw it correctly as it was late last night when I decided to look at it.
I did not look at the motor at all, but from what I have read, if it was the problem I would hear a buzzing coming from it after engaging the start relay... I do not hear any noticeable buzz.
Any suggestion before giving in and calling service would be appreciated!
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Originally Posted by: pavicicp  I also checked for continuity while start relay engaged on the timer wires from L1 to White (successful) and L1 to Tan (nothing), but I am not sure if the lack on continuity on the tan wire would cause the issue. My understanding of the wiring at the timer is fuzzy at best. With dryer unplugged, timer on, start switch held closed, you should have continuity (through motor winding, 2-4 ohms) between L1 (timer BK terminal) and tan wire (timer T terminal). With door closed, also check continuity between power plug neutral (angled blade) and timer T terminal. If good, but no continuity between timer T and W (timer on), then bad timer. No neutral to motor. Eric
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Thank you for the reply, I am not at home right now so I cant see the timer, but could you clarify a few things - what you mean by plug neutral 'angled blade'? Is that on the timer? Also, when I am running these tests, do I want to test to the wire or should I remove it and test to the terminal on the timer.
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Rank: Member
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Thank you for the reply, I am not at home right now so I cant see the timer, but could you clarify a few things - what you mean by plug neutral 'angled blade'? Is that on the timer? Also, when I am running these tests, do I want to test to the wire or should I remove it and test to the terminal on the timer.
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The dryer power plug that you unplug from the wall. It has two straight blades and one angled blade. The angled blade is the neutral. Leave wires attached to timer. Check at timer terminals.
Eric
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OK, following your guidance, I ran the following tests (timer was set to on in all cases):
Verified continuity between plug neutral and tan terminal, regardless of start switch depressed, that was broken when door opened.
Verfied continuity between timer L1 black and white terminal when start button depressed, but NO CONTINUITY between L1 black and tan (the needle on multimeter just barely moves).
There is also NO CONTINUITY between white and tan terminals regardless of start button. The multimeter needle slighty moved as it did above.
I feel confident that the timer is the issue. I have a timer on hand, but its a $125 part that is not returnable once opened and I would hate to replace it and it doesnt fix the issue.
Any confidence boosting might persuade me to give it a shot!
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With timer on, there should be continuity between timer T and W. If not, no neutral to motor, motor will not run. You can jump T to W to verify.
Eric
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I jumped the timer to verify and it fired right up! Swapped out the timer and saw the continuity over the W and T terminals. Started right up! My luck its one of the most expensive replacement parts on the unit, but cheaper than buying a new one and I didnt have to call for service! Thank you Eric, very kindly, for all of your time and willingness to help.
Now there is a clicking sound over by the motor/blower when the drum turns. Probably a result of my fiddling with the unit. Hopefully I will locate the issue sooner than later, but im still proud of myself!
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