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willow5000  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:48:01 PM(UTC)
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willow5000

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/22/2012(UTC)
Posts: 16

Old dryer, but replaced the heating element about 5-6 months ago.
It was always very strong and bright. Sometimes I worried that it was too strong, but it's a dryer.

All of a sudden, it's not heating. Opened the bottom panel up, and it is definitely not heating up (as in not getting that orange glow it used to).

Before I take it apart, I would like to know what are the options.
Obviously, one is that the heating element is broken somewhere (oh, joy!!!:mad: )

But I would like to know if there are any other (read - less expensive) options.

What else could be causing this? fuses? something else? what else should I check?

Thanks in advance - you guys are always awesome! :D
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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, September 26, 2014 1:56:56 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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Here are your parts
Parts for Kenmore Dryer 11063012101 - AppliancePartsPros.com

If you go to the Sears parts site they have part breakdown diagrams which they do not share with other vendors.

See the attachment for your wiring diagram.

There are lots of possible causes for no heat.

First I would check the power to the unit. The heating element requires the full 240 volts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

Next unplug the unit and check the heating element with a meter.
If OK then check the thermostats.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
63012101.pdf (278kb) downloaded 3 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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