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Dryer solenoid, original vs replacement part wiring

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Very old Kenmore gas dryer. No flame. Likely culprit is solenoid. Replacement solenoids have male terminals suitable for a plug-in.

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Old 09-14-2014, 09:17 AM
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Default Dryer solenoid, original vs replacement part wiring
Model Number: 110-77785100   Brand: Kenmore   Age: More than 10 years   

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Very old Kenmore gas dryer. No flame. Likely culprit is solenoid.

Replacement solenoids have male terminals suitable for a plug-in. 3 connectors on solenoid 1, 2 male terminals on solenoid 3.

Solenoids currently in the machine have 4 and 2 wires respectively that are wired directly into the solenoid (no connectors).

Solenoid 1 is actually 2 units stacked atop one another in the same bracket.

Bottom unit of solenoid 1 has:
Black wire that goes to junction that branches lines to upper unit in solenoid 1, ignitor, dryer control panel
White wire that goes to junction that branches to solenoid #2, flame sensor and from the junction a red to the ignitor.

Upper unit of solenoid 1 has:
Blue wire to junction that branches to flame sensor, solenoid 2, dryer control panel.

Solenoid 2 has:
white wire to junction, branches to flame sensor, to bottom unit solenoid 1, and r ed at junction goes to ignitor.

Blue wire to junction, branches to flame sensor, terminal on upper unit solenoid 1, dryer control panel.

Trying to figure out how to make this work..

My thoughts are:

Replacement solenoid 1 has 4 wires but replacement has only 3 male terminals. Thinking I can combine the black wires for terminal 1, white to terminal 2, blue to terminal 3.

Replacement solenoid 2 should be OK, 2 terminals.

As for replacement solenoid 1, how can I tell which terminals to use for which wires (black, blue, white)???


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2014, 11:10 AM
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The bottom coil in your original stacked unit is the assist coil and the upper coil is the hold coil. In the new 3 terminal coil, black to white is the assist coil and black to blue is the hold coil. The center terminal is where the blue wire goes, terminal 2. Measure resistance between center terminal and one of the others. If it reads about 1365 ohms, that's where the black wire goes, terminal 1. If it reads about 1925 ohms, that's where the white wire goes, terminal 3. Leave your other black wire disconnected. The new type coils may not work on your valve assembly. All you can do is try it. You may have to replace the whole assembly.

Eric


Last edited by fairbank56 : 09-14-2014 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:45 PM
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Thanks for the advice.. here is what I have...

Replacement part 279834 on left, original coils on right.

The replacement coils are taller and thus will not fit under the existing brackets.

If this helps, here are the resistances that I got.

New coils-part 279834
2 terminal coil- 1300 ohms
3 terminal coil- terminal 1 to terminal 2= 1330 ohms; terminal 1 to terminal 3= 570 ohms; terminal 2 to terminal 3= 1870 ohms

Original coils-
Coil 1- (2 coils stacked)- black to white= 600 ohms; black to blue= zilch, this is the faulty coil I would suppose
2 wire coil- blue to white= 670 ohm

photo attached.

Tried a few parts places and everything either points to either part 279834, or the need to buy the entire gas valve at $200 or so. Not worth it for what is likely a 30+ yr old dryer.

Considering purchasing the brackets that go with the new coils (taller) and then trying the wiring suggested in your post. Given the resistance readings, any further insight?? Appreciate the help.
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File Type: jpg Pitman-20140915-00466.jpg (243.7 KB, 7 views)
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:52 AM
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No change, give it a try. I see some old valve assemblies with original coils on e bay.

Eric
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:12 AM
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Having the same issue.

Did you find a solution ?

Thanks in advance
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:57 AM
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Does this look like the part you need? Post a model number to get better help.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/wh...ap4008890.html

Last edited by ThatGuy : 09-14-2017 at 09:59 AM.
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