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I have a wed9750Wl0 dryer that stopped heating. We have changed the breaker, check all power lines, cleaned all air vents, replaced the heating element, replaced the thermostat, replaced the thermal cut off. The blower works fine and blows great. The last part we replaced was the thermistor and the dryer worked for about 5 minutes and then the heating stopped again. The thermal fuse tests fine and if we are testing the electric control board correctly it tests fine also. What else could it be?
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Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool WED9750WL0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comI am assuming that you have the tech sheet/wiring diagram. [COLOR="Blue"]The thermal fuse tests fine and if we are testing the electric control board correctly it tests fine also.[/COLOR] How are you testing it? There is also the centrifugal switch in the heater circuit. It should close when the motor gets close to operating speed. This ensures that the heater does not come on before there is air flow. Have seen the wires come loose at this switch. Also be sure that the motor is clean. Sometimes heavy lint build up can prevent the mechanical assembly in the motor from activating the switches. If when running you get 240 volts from l2 to the red wire at the heater then the switch is not closing. Another way to test this would be to unplug the unit and short the two red wires at the motor's centrifugal switch together. Just be sure that they make good connection and cannot come loose and short to something and that they will not get caught in a moving part. Then plug it in and give it a try. If you have heat then the switch is not closing and you will have to replace the motor. |
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Thank you for the information. I will pass this along to my husband. I am not sure how he is testing the control board, can you tell me how to test it? Do you know if where I can get a wiring schematic for my dryer?
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See the attachment for the tech sheet. [COLOR="Blue"]can you tell me how to test it?[/COLOR] Basically you run the diagnostics to see if an error pops up. Note that this can tell you if a board is bad but does not tell you that the board is good as it may have problems not checked by the diagnostics. |
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We did already have that tech sheet. So I have been running the diagnostic and the only error code I can get to show is L2 - Low line voltage. So we changed the circuit breaker just to see if that helped... It did not. The power cord is plugged in and it has been working fine in that outlet since March. The only thing that we might have NOT tested correctly is --- Check the relay connections on the machine control electronics. We have checked and made sure all of them are connected but is there another test we can do?
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Do you have a multimeter.
I would check the voltage.
The breaker may not be the problem it could be the wall receptacle or the line cord.
Check the voltage at the plug/ wall receptacle
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! |
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Thank you for all the information... We are starting to think it is the centrifugal switch. Can that switch be replaced with a new one?
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[COLOR="Blue"] We are starting to think it is the centrifugal switch. Can that switch be replaced with a new one?[/COLOR]
No it is part of the motor assembly and not available as a separate part. |
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So we found out the power was good from outlet going into the terminal block but from block to dryer parts it was not. We took the block out and wired direct plug to dryer. It worked. It heated and dried one load of clothes then it started making a loud noise. Not sure what the problem is now? My husband will look at it tomorrow. Do you have any suggestions?
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