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My dryer stopped getting hot. I've never worked on before but decided to try for once. I tested for continuity....the

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Old 07-24-2014, 09:06 PM
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Default No Heat
Model Number: 11060022010   Brand: Kenmore   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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My dryer stopped getting hot. I've never worked on before but decided to try for once. I tested for continuity....the thermal fuse, thermostat, & heating element. All tested good. It was purchased new approx. 3 years ago.

Kenmore 11060022010

My neighbor is an electrician & helped but we could not figure out.

What part should I focus on/buy first? What usually goes out first?

Thanks,
John


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2014, 03:53 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Kenmore Dryer 11060022010 - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

First check that you have 240 volts (L1 to L2).

Turn the unit on in timed dry.
Does the timer advance?
It also uses 240 volts.
If yes then you know that there is 240 volts and that the centrifugal switch (1M to 2M) is closing.

Unplug the unit and attach one meter lead to the L1 prong on the line cord and leave it there.
Set your meter on the most sensitive resistance scale.
It is a good idea to short the meter leads together before starting so you can see if there is a 0 offset in the meter.
Now work you way back through the heater circuit.

So C at the timer should be 0 ohms.
B and A at the timer should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the thermal cutoff, the operating thermostat, the hi-limit thermostat and one side of the heating element should all be 0 ohms.
The other side of the heating element should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf 60022010.pdf (138.3 KB, 10 views)
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:43 PM
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Denman,

Thanks for your time & help. I printed the info out and will give it a shot. I will let you know the outcome.

John
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Old 07-28-2014, 06:03 PM
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B does not ring out in off position.
It does in cycle.

9.5 at heating element

A does not ring out at all.
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Old 07-29-2014, 02:53 AM
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Looks like the timer is shot.
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