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My basement got some water during a torrential downpour and the motor was underwater. Now it won't run, although the

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Old 07-14-2014, 10:53 AM
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Default Kenmore not running
Model Number: 110.6062298   Brand: Kenmore   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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My basement got some water during a torrential downpour and the motor was underwater. Now it won't run, although the timer ticks away.

I have tested the door and run switch for continuity and tested the fuses in back.

The thermistor reads .03 on the 200 setting of the meter. From what I understand this is out of range.

I am not totally sure of what I am doing so I am looking for confirmation: since the dryer was plugged in during the flood but not on, can water cause it to fail?

Do you test the thermistor by detaching the two large spades opposite of each other, in this case top to bottom (as opposed to the two smaller spades on the face)?

The water was fairly clean -- no mud and the motor looks pretty good.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

David


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2014, 03:29 AM
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I cannot find any info on the given model number.
Tried here and the Sears parts site.
Please check it.
Find your model number - AppliancePartsPros.com

Do you test the thermistor by detaching the two large spades opposite of each other, in this case top to bottom (as opposed to the two smaller spades on the face)?
I am not sure that the unit has a thermistor the above sounds more like a thermostat which has an internal heater. Thermistors are usually just two connector devices not 4.

Does the motor spin easily with the belt off?

Does the unit have two parts attached to the blower assembly?
Is this where the the 4 connector device you refer to is located?
If yes then the other device (2 connector) is probably a thermal fuse.
It should measure 0 ohms. This will be the fuse that kills power to the motor.

Have you checked the power to the unit?
The motor on most units uses the L1 to Neutral side of the line.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!
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Old 07-15-2014, 06:44 AM
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I guess what I was calling the thermistor was the dryer cycling thermostat.

I can't find the model number either, although that's clearly what's on the door sticker.

In any case the thermostat and and thermal fuse on the blower housing all show continuity.

I will try the breakers. I am not too comfortable sticking probes into a 240 socket while standing on basement concrete. Or anywhere else for that matter.

Is there a way to test the motor independent of all the fuses and switches?
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Old 07-15-2014, 06:45 AM
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And the motor spins fine.
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Old 07-15-2014, 06:54 AM
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Is there a way to test the motor independent of all the fuses and switches?
There is a way but you need a wiring diagram so you can bench test it.
Also need the wiring diagram to test the motor windings.

Take a look inside the control console if you have not already been there. Often they like to store the wiring diagram there.
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