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Recently my dryer would not start. I researched on line and came up with the solution that it would be

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2014, 10:48 AM
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Default dry not cooling down
Model Number: LNC7761A71   Brand: Admiral   Age: More than 10 years   

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Recently my dryer would not start. I researched on line and came up with the solution that it would be wise to replace the high limit thermostat and the thermal fuse, so I bought that kit from you. Dryer not worked but the housing was extremely hot. Found venting almost clogged. So I replaced all the venting. Now the dryer works but clothes are extremely hot when cycle is down, even when I use the permanent press cycle. This never used to happen. Could the parts I purchased from you be defective? What's my next step?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2014, 11:59 AM
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Could the parts I purchased from you be defective?
No.
Both the parts you list are safety devices so have no effec t unless there is an over temperature problem.
Note that I do not work for AppliancePartsPros.

What's my next step?
Do you have the wiring diagram?
If not often it is stored in the control console of the unit.
Below is a link to a typical wiring diagram for this type of unit but I cannot say how close it matches your unit.
10-Wiring Information (series 15 Elec) parts for Admiral LNC7766B71 - AppliancePartsPros.com

Unplug the unit and put it close to the end of a permanent press cycle.
Now measure across the L to H contacts at the timer.
The contacts should be open, see the timing chart below the wiring diagram.
If not then the timer is bad.

Could also be a grounded element.
Unplug the unit and both wires at the heating element.
Measure across the element, should be about 12 ohms.
then measure from each side of the element to the case, both should be infinite ohms. If not then the element is grounded and should be replaced.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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