Help, Frigidaire Stackable Dryer won't heat, call repairman? or easy enough to DIY?


Dryer Repair

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Hey, need to decide if I need to call a repair man. My fleb8200ds0 Frigidaire Stackable Dryer won't heat. This

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Old 06-13-2014, 05:43 AM
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Default Help, Frigidaire Stackable Dryer won't heat, call repairman? or easy enough to DIY?
Model Number: fleb8200ds0   Brand: Frigidaire   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Hey, need to decide if I need to call a repair man.

My fleb8200ds0 Frigidaire Stackable Dryer won't heat. This model is attached to the washer, I don't think it can detach. It turns and turns, but no heat. I've cleaned out the lint and opened it up and can't detect any places where lint might be, so I don't think that's the problem.

Can I use these steps?

Frigidaire Dryer Not Drying | eHow

Make sure you aren't overloading your dryer. Try drying a load about half the size of your typical load and see if it dries. Often, problems arise when the dryer is too full.

Make sure the dryer is getting power. If your dryer won't even turn on, there is likely a problem with the power. Make sure the dryer is securely plugged into the electrical outlet. Check your breakers or fuses to make sure a breaker hasn't flipped or a fuse hasn't blown. Climb behind the dryer and use a screwdriver to remove the screws holding the plug access plate in place. Make sure the plug is properly attached to the dryer and wires are tightly fastened by the screws. Look for any signs of burning or wear on the plug itself. If you see signs of wear on the plug, replace it with a new one.

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Clean out the lint tray and dryer vent. A clogged lint tray or dryer vent can decrease your Frigidaire's ability to effectively dry clothes. Remove the lint tray and clean out any lint. Move around to the back of the dryer and disconnect the dryer vent from the exhaust port on the dryer. Disconnect the other end from the exhaust port on the wall. Shake out any lint from the vent. Use a can of compressed air to blow the vent clean. Do the same for the exhaust port leading out of the house.

Disassemble your Frigidaire dryer to examine the other components. Slide a putty knife between the top panel and front panel, and slide it toward the center of the dryer to disconnect the retaining clips on the top panel. Lift the top panel up. Move the knife along the inside edges of the front panel, and lift the front panel up and off of the dryer. Disconnect the door switch wires and slide the front panel to the side. Disconnect the drum belt from the motor pulley, and raise the back end of the drum. Slide the drum forward and out of the dryer.

Replace the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to blow if your dryer gets too hot. It's located in the back right corner of the dryer, attached to heating element housing, and looks like a round piece of plastic with two wires coming out of the ends. Disconnect the wires and remove the screw holding the fuse in place. Screw a new fuse into place and reconnect the wires.

Replace the thermostat. The thermostat is a round piece of metal and plastic, located next to the thermal fuse. It regulates the temperature of your Frigidaire dryer. Disconnect the wires leading to the thermostat and remove the screws holding it in place. Screw a new thermostat in place and reconnect the wires.

Replace the heating element. The heating element is the internal component that actually generates heat within your dryer. Look at the element coils and see if any are broken. If none are broken, the element is fine. If one is, it must be replaced. Remove the thermal fuse and thermostat from the outside of the heating element housing. Disconnect the wires running to the heating element. Remove the screws holding the heating element and housing in place. Lift the housing out of the dryer. Install a new heating element and housing, and screw it into place. Reconnect the wires and reattach the thermal fuse and thermostat.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/how_7278565_frigidaire-dryer-not-drying.html#ixzz34WRu0qJK"

I am not crazy about removing the drum, is it easy? I've found several youtube videos on how to remove the drum, doesn't seem too bad, but is it that different with my model? Can't seem to find the right one.


1. should i just buy all three parts from here and replace them all? http://www.********************.com/...=118850&PID=19

2. is there anything that is very different from a normal dryer and drum removal versus my dryer/washer unit?

3. it also squeaks while turning... any idea what that might be?


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Old 06-14-2014, 03:14 AM
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denman is a splendid one to behold

Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram.
Parts for Frigidaire FLEB8200DS0 Washer Dryer Combo - AppliancePartsPros.com

Below is a link to a service manual.
I think it includes info on your unit.
You will have to join the site and be logged in to be able to download the manual.

The items you list 1 to 7 seem to all use the plug and chug method for appliance repair. definitely not the way to troubleshoot a problem. Also it can cost you a small fortune in parts.

I cannot say if you should get in a service tech as it depends on how handy you are and what tools/knowledge you have.

1. should i just buy all three parts from here and replace them all? http://www.********************.com/...=118850&PID=19
I would not as you could replace all three and still have the problem.

2. is there anything that is very different from a normal dryer and drum removal versus my dryer/washer unit?
It is basically the same. as other units which use a rear center drum bearing for the drum support.

3. it also squeaks while turning... any idea what that might be?
Usually this is the rear drum support bearing (item 32 in section 03).
Usually it just needs cleaning and re-greasing but sometimes it has to be replaced as it may be worn. Be sure to use a high temperature grease on it.
Also when removing the drum be careful with the little ball bearing (item 5 in section 03). It likes to jump out and then play hide and seek.
Note the squeaks may also be other things like the motor, the idler, the front glides etc.

Now for your problem.
First you have to check that the unit is getting the correct voltage.
The motor and timer run off of half the line but the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

If the voltage is OK then unplug the unit.
Check the heater with a meter. It should be around 12 ohms.
Check the hi-limit thermostat (item 33 in section 03), it should be 0 ohms.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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