Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

New Topic Post Reply
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
JohnWMc  
#1 Posted : Monday, June 2, 2014 3:17:26 PM(UTC)
Quote
JohnWMc

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/26/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1

Just a quick thank you post. I appreciate you guys maintaining this forum.

My older dryer stopped heating this weekend, but the timer would still move through all cycles. Per instructions here I first checked the exhaust for excess lint and then for full 240 voltage. Both being normal, I then did a continuity check of each component. The thermal cut-off was bad.

I got a replacement kit at Sears today and am back up and running. Thanks!
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, June 3, 2014 3:26:24 AM(UTC)
Quote
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Did you find a cause for the cut-off blowing?

Sometimes they just blow on their own but usually there is aa cause.

If not you may want to take a look at the following.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Quick Reply Show Quick Reply
Users browsing this topic
New Topic Post Reply
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.