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Crosley Dryer taking to long to dry

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Ok, I have a Crosley Dryer that takes 3 or more times running on high heat to dry a regular

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Old 05-31-2014, 07:28 AM
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Default Crosley Dryer taking to long to dry
Model Number: CEDS832VQ1   Brand: Crosley   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Ok, I have a Crosley Dryer that takes 3 or more times running on high heat to dry a regular sized load. I've checked the vent inside the unit, and the ducting leading out of the house, no blockage. I've checked the continuity on the High limit thermostat, the Heating Element, the Thermal Cut-off switch, the thermal fuse and the Cycling Thermostat, all of which have continuity..
Heating element (on 200Ohm setting) is 09.7... I'm getting 123v from each side of the plug (L1 to neutral, L2 to neutral), I'm getting the same at the terminal block.. what am i missing?

Also it takes the heating element quite a while to begin heating (i'd say approximently 30-40mins into the cycle)

Confused,
Jerame


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Old 05-31-2014, 02:58 PM
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Do you have 240 volts from L1 to L2 at the unit's terminal strip.

Note that you can read 120 at L1 and L2 to Neutral and still have only half the line (120).

Your heating element resistance looks OK but did you check for a grounded element.
Unplug the unit and both wires at the heater,.
Measure across the heater, you should see your 9.3 ohms.
Then measure from each side of the heater to the case, both should be infinite ohms if not the heater is grounded and should be replaced.
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:07 PM
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Ok I checked the terminal block and I'm getting 243v across L1 to L2.
I also checked the element and got infinate on both sides of the element so no grounded element
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Old 06-01-2014, 04:44 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool CEDS832VQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

Just to be 100% sure that it is not a vent problem I would try the following.
Unplug the unit and disconnect it from the vent system.
Now try a run.
If it now dries OK odds are the vent system needs checking/cleaning.
Be sure to check that the louvers on the outside of the house open correctly.

If you do not want any lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose.
Put one leg into the other and then attach this to the dryer's vent.
Leave enough room so the pantyhose can balloon out like a windsock.

Both the above will let you check the temperature and the air flow.

If the above makes no difference.
Unplug the unit and set the timer to high heat timed dry mid cycle.
Now measure from C on the timer to the centrifugal switch side of the heater.
You should get your 9.3 ohms.
Here we are trying to see if a thermostat or timer contact set has a resistance and is lowering the voltage to the heater.

If OK then I would replace the cycling thermostat on the bower assembly as that is the most likely cause.
If you have a fairly rapid response thermometer you could check your exhaust temperature.
On high heat the cycling thermostat should open at about 155 degrees F and then reclose at 130 degrees F.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf CEDS832.pdf (127.0 KB, 3 views)
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:26 AM
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ok, I tested From C to the centrifugal switch side of the heater, and i didn't get any readings. So i had my wife slowly turn the timer knob through the entire cycle until i got a reading.. It wasn't until the timer was in the last 20 mins (cool down) portion of the cycle that i got the 9.7ohm reading. im i right to think its the timer i need to replace?
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Old 06-01-2014, 09:32 AM
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Yes that would also be my conclusion.
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Old 06-01-2014, 10:35 AM
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Thank you so much for your help!
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