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Dryer Not Heating After Flood

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Trying to repair a dryer that won't heat. Previous owners said that this unit was in a flood (only a

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Old 02-05-2014, 10:58 PM
lum lum is offline
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Default Dryer Not Heating After Flood
Model Number: NED5240TQ0   Brand: Amana   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Trying to repair a dryer that won't heat. Previous owners said that this unit was in a flood (only a few inches of water) and ever since will not heat. Everything else works fine as far as I can tell (motor, drum, timer, etc.), just no heat. Have checked fuses, heating element and thermostat for continuity and they all check out OK. Not sure where else to check at this point. Timer? It seems to be functioning properly - advances and stops when it should. Any direction would be appreciated!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2014, 08:01 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag NED5240TQ0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for a tech sheet.

First check the power to be sure the unit is getting 240 volts which powers the heating coil.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

If the power is OK.
Then attach one meter lead to L1 and leave it there, You could use the L1 prong on the power cord or Black on the timer.
Set the unit to timed dry high heat and use your most sensitive meter scale to work your way back through the heater circuit.
Red on timer switch 2 , both sides of the thermal cutoff , both sides of the operating thermostat , both sides of the hi-limit thermostat and the thermostat side of the heating element should all measure 0 ohms.
The other side of the heater should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
The heater side of the centrifugal switch should also be 8 to 12.

If all OK then there is a problem with the centrifugal switch.
Could be the switch itself or the mechanism that closes the switch.

Though if it is the mechanism I would expect that the motor would not stay on when the start button is released and overheat if left on. As the other centrifugal switch keeps the motor running and also disconnects the start winding.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf NED5240.pdf (506.1 KB, 4 views)
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Old 02-06-2014, 08:10 AM
lum lum is offline
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Hoping that the water from the flood corroded the switch (and that it can be brushed clean.) If I pull out the motor is there a way to visually check to see if the switch is operating? If it is indeed the switch is just the switch repairable/replaceable or am I looking at needing to replace the entire motor?
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:47 AM
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It is pretty hard to see if the centrifugal mechanism is working.
You would have to attach onto the armature and spin it in the correct direction with a drill.

If the switch is toast you have to purchase a new motor.
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Old 02-06-2014, 12:01 PM
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Timer motor on this model is 240 volts, so the 240vac supply must be ok. Also, feed to timer motor is on load side of motor switch so if motor switch is bad, timer would not advance.

Eric
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Old 02-07-2014, 02:16 AM
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fairbank56 hit the nail on the head.
If the timer motor advances in timed dry then the motor's switches are OK.

Fact is I should have seen that, must have had my head up my you know what.
His method is a lot easier than mine.
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