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Roper dryer will not heat (new parts installed too)

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My dryer has been having issues heating to a temp that would dry my clothes in a timely manner. The

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Old 02-01-2014, 09:49 AM
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Default Roper dryer will not heat (new parts installed too)
Model Number: RED4440VQ1   Brand: Roper   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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My dryer has been having issues heating to a temp that would dry my clothes in a timely manner. The dryer then stopped running completely this week, like there was no power getting to it. After looking online, I found that the heating element was more than likely going out, and that the thermal fuse was the likely cause of the dryer not working at all. Tested the continuity of the thermal fuse, and found it was dead.

I bought a new heating element (#279838) and thermal fuse (#3392519), and installed them yesterday. The dryer now runs, but has no heat at all. I let it run a full cycle and it didn't dry a wet rag that I threw in to test. I uninstalled the heating element, and installed my old one just to check if the new one is bad. The dryer was heating again, but there is a burnt metal smell (I assume that is because it needs to be replaced). I have tested the continuity of the new heating element, and it checks out fine. I even checked the high limit thermostat (#3977767), and it checks out fine.

I have no clue what the problem is now. Common sense tells me the heating element I bought is bad, since I can get heat out of the old one. But if that is true, then why does it pass a multimeter test?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Craig


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2014, 02:48 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for your tech sheet.

The most common cause of your original problem is a bad vent system.
It is always a good idea to ccheck/clean the vent system.

You do have a weird problem now and yes if the new heating element measures OK with a meter then it should heat up.

I did think of one scenario which would explain your symptoms.
Perhaps the old element is grounded.
Unplug the unit and both wires from the old heating element.
Measure the heating element, should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Now measure from each side of the element to the case, both should be infinite ohms.
If not the element is grounded.
This can cause it to heat even if there is an open in the heater circuit.
Also it can cause it to run too hot (unregulated) which may have caused you original fault.

If the old element is grounded then you will have to find the open in the heater circuit with the new element.

Unplug the unit and set it to a timed dry heating cycle.
Attach one meter lead to L1 (at the timer or even at the line cord) and leave it there.
Now work your way back through the heater circuit.
Use your most sensitive meter scale.
So BK and A on the timer should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the Thermal Cutoff, Operating Thermostat and the Hi Limit Thermostat should all be 0 ohms.
The thermostat side of the heating element should be 0 ohms, the other side should be the heater resistance.
One of the red wires at the centrifugal switch on the motor should be the heater resistance.

There is no way to check the centrifugal switch on the motor using resistance.
To confirm that it is a problem you will have to short the two red wires together. Then tape them so they cannot short to anything else or get caught in a moving part. Then you have to put the unit back together and give it a try.

There is also another scenario that would fit your symptoms.
It would require two problems in the unit (you have a grounded element and also have lost L2 voltage). Unlikely but possible.
So if you find the original element is grounded I would check the power.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!
Attached Images
File Type: pdf RED4440.pdf (138.3 KB, 1 views)
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