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Dryer would not start so I replaced the thermal fuse. It now starts but won't heat up at all. I

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Old 01-25-2014, 08:24 PM
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Dryer would not start so I replaced the thermal fuse. It now starts but won't heat up at all. I checked voltage into dryer and its 120 each leg and 240 together. I also checked all stats, fuses, and the heating element for continuity. All good. I removed the 2 120v inputs to the heating element and turned on the dryer. Each is 120v and 240 together. When I hook those leads back up to the heating element and do the same test I only get 120v across the two leads. Is the element bad even though it has no visible signs of problems and is good on cont? Thanks in advance if anyone can help.

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Old 01-26-2014, 06:29 AM
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Heater coil may be grounded. Check resistance between heater terminals and the heater metal case. What was resistance of heater coil across the terminals? What is model number of dryer?

Eric
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:26 AM
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Thank you for your response. I won't be able to check it until this afternoon. I did check 1 terminal of the element to ground and got no continuity but I didn't think to check the other. I will do so this afternoon and post the results. Thanks again.
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:40 PM
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As fairbank56 said a model number would be useful here as this is a weird problem.

If the element is not grounded.
Check for the 240 at the terminal strip with the element on and off.

If it also drops out when the heater should be on then it could be a bad power cord, wall receptacle or the circuit breaker.
Most likely the breaker.
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:27 PM
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I still havn't been able to check it yet. Its my mother in laws dryer. I will do all the tests listed so far except the resistance of the coils. They have an ancient multimeter. I believe it only checks continuity. Thanks for your patience.
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Old 01-29-2014, 03:27 PM
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Ok sorry it took so long. 12 hour shifts are brutal. Checked both coil leads to ground and got no continuity. I also checked the input 120v legs with the load attached and it was still 120v at each leg. I have no idea what model it is. It has a cycling thermostat, a high limit thermostat attached to the coils, a thermal cutoff switch above the high limit thermo, and a thermal fuse above the cycling thermostat. Hope that helps. Thanks again.
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Old 01-29-2014, 05:04 PM
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Were going to need the model number or else you will need to provide the part number of the wiring diagram or post a clear high-res photo of it.

Eric
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Old 01-30-2014, 12:46 AM
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One other thing.
You said " I also checked the input 120v legs with the load attached and it was still 120v at each leg."

But did you get 240 volts between the two legs (L1 to L2) (red to black)?

Using Neutral/ground as a reference point in the heater circuit can be confusing as it is not part of the heater circuit.
The circuit is usually L1, a set of timer contacts , the thermal cut-off, the hi-limit thermostat , the cycling thermostat contacts , the heating coil , the heater centrifugal switch on the motor, L2.

What can happen if you use Neutral is that if one side of the line drops out then you see 120 everywhere as the good side of the line will feed through components and you have no way of knowing if you are reading L1 or L2.
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