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Kenmore runs but stops after 15 minutes

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hello! I have a Kenmore electric dryer about 14-15 yrs old. Model number 110.62802100. I replaced the motor with a

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Old 01-19-2014, 07:49 PM
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Default Kenmore runs but stops after 15 minutes
Model Number: 110.62802100   Brand: Kenmore   Age: More than 10 years   

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hello! I have a Kenmore electric dryer about 14-15 yrs old. Model number 110.62802100. I replaced the motor with a genuine Kenmore part from my local appliance guy. It still runs for about 15-20 minutes then stops halfway through the drying cycle. It heats well. I replaced the heating element last year. I cleaned everything, lint trap clear, vent pipe clear, drum rolls nice. I measured the heat coming out of the vent pipe on the back. It heats up to about 185 degrees then cool down to about 140 degrees. I think this is way too hot as the glare from the heating element was bright orange! I checked the 3 thermostats and they all checked out OK with continuity- that is if I checked them correctly. First time I used my voltmeter to check ohms.

Also we noticed that the timer is actually running slower than real time. I timed with a timer to see how long it would go before quitting. My timer showed 18 minutes but the timer control on the dryer only showed that it ran for about 10 minutes.

Any thoughts? I appreciate any time or ideas you may have. My wife is very hesitant to put any more $$$ into it at this point and I agree. we may look to buy new as we feel we've gotten lots of use out of it over the years. But now I just put a new motor in it so thought it may be something simple.


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Old 01-20-2014, 03:10 AM
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Why did you replace the motor?
Was it for this same problem?

When it shuts itself off can you restart it right away?
If not then it is probably the motor overheating and tripping it's internal protect. You then have to wait till the motor cools down before you can restart it.

Check that the drum rotates fairly easily in the correct direction. Could be there is a mechanical problem and the drum is putting too much drag on the motor.

If it is a motor overheating problem. looking at the parts breakdown at the sears site it shows a seal between the blower and the motor if you did not reinstall this when you replaced the motor then it could be that hot air is being blown back onto the motor causing it to overheat.

Your vent temperatures do look too high. The spec on the cycling thermostat is open at 155 degrees and re-close at 130 degrees.
It may need replacing.

I do not understand the timer problem.
But if the unit is in an auto mode the timer only advances when the heater is off so the times will not correspond to dial settings.
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:24 PM
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I replaced the motor as it made a horrible buzzing noise upon startup, was progressively getting louder when it ran, and it would quit working after about 5 minutes. So at least I can get half a load of laundry done now

Thanks for the tip on the seal between the fan and motor. I'll check that. Does not restart right away. Need to wait about 30-45 minutes then it'll start.

I'm leaning towards the operating thermostat too. I read that on another thread too. It is not working properly and therefore the machine heats the element way too high to compensate (or along those lines). Makes sense to me anyway. But I'm no expert. Just trying to save a buck or 2 and gaining some pride in doing it myself.
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:38 PM
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ALSO: I just thought of this too. I noticed the belt was pretty frayed and kinda coming apart. Is it possible that the belt is slipping and working the motor too much and then kicking out?

thanks for any info you may have.
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Old 01-22-2014, 02:16 AM
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I doubt the belt is causing the problem as if it was slipping it would reduce the load on the motor.

I would replace it as it is just a problem waiting to happen and it will only break when you really, really, really need the dryer.

Also check that the seals and drum supports are in good shape.
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:01 PM
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Okay so here's my latest update. I unplugged the heating element just so see what would happen. It ran for about 48 minutes then shut off. I couldn't restart it so the motor must've been over heated. Which means it may not be the operating thermostat. I really don't know what else to look at. Is there a special grease for the drum wheels? All the seals look to be ok. I have a new operating thermostat that I picked up but I don't want to put it in unless I know for certain that's what the problem is.

How do I test this thermostat? What numbers am I looking for if I test the ohms?

the other thing I just noticed too: my dryer uses the older belt tensioner that has the rubber pad on it- no wheel. It has some grooves on the pad where the belt rubs and the belt is looking pretty frayed. Too much tension or load do you think? I plan to replace the tensioner, belt, and maybe the rollers too. thanks.

Last edited by grebma : 02-12-2014 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 02-13-2014, 03:12 AM
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Too much tension or load do you think?
Yes

Click on a parts picture or description and a new page will open with more info.
Sometimes with a Q&A and a video.
At the top of this section there are views of how the belt/idler should look.

I would replace the tensioner with an idler wheel and also the belt.
Part number: AP2911909

Part number: AP2911909


The belt is AP2946843. There is a video on the second page.

Check the rear support rollers for slop.
If there is minimal slop and the wheels turn easily they are probably OK.
There is a roller kit available.
AP3098345. It includes 2 rollers and 4 tri-rings.
Checking the rollers shafts is a bit more difficult as often the tri-rings (AP5684740) will break getting them off.
If the shafts (AP5176394) are worn then they should be replaced along with the rollers.
The rollers should not require any lubrication.
If the old rollers and shafts are OK then a drop of oil would not hurt but just a drop as oil will collect lint.

There is also a seal (AP2947135) on the back of the blower (motor side), check that it is OK. It reduces any hot air from the blower being blown back onto the motor.

Also check the front support bearings/rings.

The operating thermostat is harder to check.
The easiest way is to monitor the exhaust temperature when the unit is on.
On regular/high heat it should open at 155 degrees F and re-close at 130 degrees.
The outer two contacts should be 0 ohms at room temperature and infinite ohms at over 155.
The inner two contacts are the built in heater. They should be 5,000 to 20,000 ohms. I cannot find tech info on this unit so cannot give you an exact number. In any case it is only turned on when you use a lower heat setting. It adds heat to the thermostat which causes it to cycle more often, reducing the units heat output.

I hope the above helps.
I am off to the cabin for a few days so will be unavailable.
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