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I have an old Stackmates II made by White Westinghouse , model LE400MXW2. Since last week the dryer doesn't produce

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Old 01-17-2014, 02:22 AM
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Question dryer doesn't produce enough heat
Model Number: LE400MXW2   Brand: White-Westinghouse   Age: More than 10 years   

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I have an old Stackmates II made by White Westinghouse , model LE400MXW2.
Since last week the dryer doesn't produce enough heat. I need to run the dryer two times in order to dry completely the load.
After reading on www.********************.ca for the possible reasons, I've replaced the High Limit Thermostat (didn't even tested the old one). It didn't help.
Then I've checked if the air duct from the blower all the way to the wall outlet, all is clean.
Then I've checked the power outlet, the voltage is 237V.
I've checked the Cycling thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter, it showed zero.
What else can be checked?

BTW, right next to the High Limit Thermostat there is another thermostat , don't know what it is... could this be the problem part?


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Last edited by mraskin : 01-17-2014 at 02:49 AM.
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:35 PM
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Question

I ran a whole Auto Dry cycle with the door open and no clothes, so I could see how the heating element behaves. During this whole Auto Dry cycle (which took about 45 min) the heating element came on just 6 times for about 12 second each time. Does this test gives any clue as to what is not working properly?

Last edited by mraskin : 01-25-2014 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 01-25-2014, 04:23 PM
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can anyone help here, please?
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Old 01-27-2014, 01:40 PM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Frigidaire LE400MXW2 Washer Dryer Combo - AppliancePartsPros.com

I cannot find any tech info on this unit.

The other device on the heater is a thermal cut-off (fuse) it is a backup for the high limit in case the hi-limit's contacts weld together.

Running the unit with the door open is not a good test.
The unit sucks air past the heating coil, through the drum and then exhausts it. So with the door open you do not have proper air flow and are probably running on the hi-limit which is just a safety device.

The control thermostat is item 15 in section 03.
It specs are to open at 135 degrees F and close at 120 degrees.
So your exhaust temperatures should be in this range on hi-heat.

Check the exhaust temperatures.

Unplug the unit and both wires at the heating coil.
Check the across the heating coil. Most of them are 8 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the frame/ground.
Both should be infinite ohms.
If not your coil is grounded (only part of it is heating) and needs replacing.

If it need replacing you might as well do an overhaul on it.
Check all seals, front drum supports, belt, idler wheel, rear support bearing etc.

If the rear support bearing is good, clean it and re-lube it using high temperature grease.
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Old 01-27-2014, 03:39 PM
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Hi Denman.
Thanks for the response.
Actually the whole problem started from some sort of rattling sounds and no heat at the same time. I took apart the dryer and saw that the blower wheel was cracked and the clamp that holds it was gone (i found that clamp on the floor later on when I pulled the dryer/washer away from the wall). So I've replaced the blower wheel with a new one. I took the drum out and examined it. The rear support bearing was bad, so I've replaced it with a new one and lubed it with high temperature grease. I've checked that the drum seals are not worn out; the felt around the door looks OK. Then I vacuum cleaned the dryer completely in and out. So there is no lint anywhere now.

I've checked the exhaust temperature of the dryer. First round it wasn't heating much , i.e. i've ran the Auto Dry and the first time the temperature was 80F. Then I've ran the Auto Dry for the second time right away after the first one, and the temperature was 158F.

I've checked the Cycling thermostat (which you reffered as control thermostat) for continuity with a multi-meter, it showed zero.
Regardless of continuity test , I wonder if this is the problem?

If the dryer works then most likely the thermal cut-off (fuse) is OK . Right?

I will need to check whether the heating element isn't shorted to ground. I doubt it since I saw it getting completely red all around when I was testing with the door open. But I will check it in anyways as per your sugestion.
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Old 01-28-2014, 02:51 AM
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I've checked the Cycling thermostat (which you reffered as control thermostat) for continuity with a multi-meter, it showed zero.
Regardless of continuity test , I wonder if this is the problem?
Yes it could be.
Perhaps it is opening at too loow of a temperature.

If the dryer works then most likely the thermal cut-off (fuse) is OK . Right?
Correct.
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