Whirlpool duet stops running, will restart after breaker is flipped off for 12 hours


Dryer Repair

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Whirlpool duet electric dryer will not stay running. I replaced the electronic control board, part number 8546219, thermostat, thermistor, and

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Old 01-04-2014, 06:27 AM
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Default Whirlpool duet stops running, will restart after breaker is flipped off for 12 hours
Model Number: GEW9250PW1   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Whirlpool duet electric dryer will not stay running.

I replaced the electronic control board, part number 8546219, thermostat, thermistor, and thermal fuse. The machine will not turn on, but several of the panel LEDs are very dimly lit. If I flip the breaker and let the machine sit for 12 hours, and reenergize, the machine will start and dry one load. Sometimes to completion, sometimes not. At that point the machine will not turn on again, but the same LEDs are dimly lit again. I can repeat the cycle and get one load per day.

When the machine will start, the diagnostics mode reports no errors.

Is the issue with the aforementioned control board, or the pale controller?



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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2014, 03:27 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool GEW9250PW1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Has this unit ever worked correctly at this location with the current wiring?

Have you checked the power to the unit at the terminal strip in the unit?

Was this the reason you replaced the control board?
And if yes did anything change after the board was replaced?

Note this will probably be a difficult troubleshooting job as the control board is the most logical cause of your symptoms.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf GEW9250.pdf (341.8 KB, 20 views)
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Old 01-12-2014, 06:28 PM
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Thanks for the reply.

I followed the tech sheet supplied with the dryer. The power is coming into the terminal block and to the control board. I used a meter to proof the console board and verify the buttons are all properly working.

The appliance worked for years and has not been relocated.

I replaced the electronic board because I could get a refurb for one hundred and the console was about two hundred. Figured since there was no clear answer it was better to start at the typical problems and go from there.

What I suspect is that on the console board is a capacitor that is going bad. As I mentioned in the earlier post, the dryer when disconnected from power for twelve hours will work for about two hours before stopping. Then several LEDs will be very dimly lit. I read on another blog of two others experiencing the same or similar issue. They replaced the console board and issue went away.

I will order that part in the next day or so unless someone has a better idea.

Thank you for the reply. This issue is frustrating.


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Old 01-13-2014, 10:35 AM
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I have the same dryer with the same maddening problems.
I installed a refurbished control board. No help.
I also thought it might have been a bad capacitor on the console board but as far as I can tell there are no caps on the console boards. The only caps I can see are on the main control board.
The ribbon cables connecting the console to the main board were not making a good connection so I made some jumper cables to connect the boards. The ribbon cables for this dryer are not available online.
That seemed to solve the problem of having to cut power for several hours but the other issues are still present.
The best trick I've found is to set the rotary dial at "12 o'clcock", between "heavy duty" and "timed dry". Press "control on" and the display will show "--". Turn the rotary switch to any of the other settings and the dryer will usually work for at least one load, although it usually beeps constantly while drying.
Here's a thread with similar problems on a Kenmore dryer which seems to be essentially the same machine.

Kenmore Elite He4 Dryer NO POWER?

My dryer worked perfecly for several years before this problem so I can only think of a couple of possibilities:
1. A component or components have gone bad on the boards.
2. The normal vibration of the dryer has opened a cold solder joint that causes intermittent problems.
3. It could be moisture as the folks working on the Kenmore think, but in my case the hair dryer trick doesn't seem to help.

Any ideas?

Last edited by noworkee : 01-13-2014 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 01-14-2014, 08:05 PM
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Tonight I replaced the console board. It appears to have fixed the problem. Dryer runs good at this point. Time will tell.

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Old 01-17-2014, 07:42 AM
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Here are some ideas from other folks that I copied from other posts. These are concerning the Kenmore Elite and the Whirlpool Duet Dryer.

================================================== ======================

My experience with the Kenmore He4T dryer is that every year I had to buy a new board because of the continual beeping, and eventually failure to run. I decided to get to the bottom of the problem, I'm tired a paying $200 for a replacement board. I traced every button and LED back to the main controller board. What I ultimately found is that the signal from the End Of Cycle Volume, Start, and Cancel buttons are read using the same wire that controls the units display for the time remaining. After time this display must degrade and interfere with the signal for the EOC volume making it appear as though someone is continually pushing that button. Below are my instructions on how to fix it. Cost will be under $10 and depending on how comfortable you are doing maintenance will take less than 30 minutes.

I fixed my Kenmore dryer but the Whirlpool uses the same control board and has a little different keypad, but it essentially the same circuitry. All my fix does is put a diode in series with the cathode (pin 13 on the display board).

1. Remove screws to main keypad panel, Torx #8, or small screwdriver. Don't worry nothing will fall out, the buttons and LEDs are all soldered in. They could actually sell this board separately for a lot less, but then they'd not make as much money. Also, you can often find a cheaper assembly in a different color that your machine has, and simply swap this board with the original.

2. With main keypad board removed, look at the top side area near the upper right corner. Near the display. There is a white line indicating jumper JP12. Cut the jumper trace using an exacto knife. Make sure the trace is completely cut. If all you want to do is remedy the problem this is enough. However, the units time remaining display will not work with this jumper cut.

3. Using the holes that are at the ends of the jumper just cut, insert a diode. The black bar on the diode should be at JP12 hole next to the hole for jumper JP48. The diode end without a bar should be near the top edge of the board. I used a solder sucker to remove solder from the hole then inserted the diode to give it a neater appearance. If it is easier you can just solder the diode onto the top of the holes without actually putting the leads through.

4. You're done put it back together and try it.

Parts List:
1. If desired, 100 Piece Security Bit Set from Harbor freight (about $10) has the #8 Torx bit.
2. A diode. I used a 1N914 from Radio Shack. About $2 for 10.

================================================== =======================


THANK YOU FOR THIS MOST EXCELLENT POST. I had the same symptoms, and this allowed me to fix the problem. But my solution was very slightly different than what is posted here because the other common segment of the numeric display was what was causing me problems. Here is the fix...

I installed the diode as described in the post above, but that did not fix my problem. After some circuit tracing, I identified that JP57 feeds the other display. I installed another diode exactly as shown in the photo, but right next to the first one, after cutting JP57, and my problem was solved. Note that the black band goes in the same orientation as the first diode described in this posting.

================================================== =======================

I did the JP12 and JP57 fix and still had beeping and no response from the main keypad. I then disconnected the secondary panel, the one with the modification buttons like Damp Dry, Signal volume, etc. and i'm working again. I assume there is an issue with that panel, put I decided it was easier to live without it as most of the functions are unnecessary.

================================================== ======================

The problem is NOT in the buttons, the moisture and corrosion that cause this problem resides under the black ribbon cable Connectors on the boards!! Have successfully repaired mine by removing the connector on the board. It was not easy and you have to be very patient and carefull to cut it off (hacksaw blade and olfa knife) without hurting the pins. When you have removed the plastic from around the pins and re-soldered any that have been broken in the process then clean the area with a good contact cleaner and compressed air. Reattach the ribbons to (yes) the bare pins. Coat the connections and parts with a good quality acrylic electrical coating (2 or 3 coats between drying). Put the thing back together and your good to go. This bit of info is about to help alot of people, spread the word. I may throw together a bit of a youtube vid on this if there are enough questions.


PS...and yes it is not easy to remove the connector...time and patience. But better than spending $500 on a new dryer. I removed 2, the one on the modifiers board and the one (same short ribbon) on the cycle controll board.

================================================== ========================

I have a dryer that I think is having a problem with the control board. If I put the selector on an automatic cycle with the controls off, the controls are non responsive. If I put selector on manual cycles, it works just fine..

If I put the selector in between manual and automatic cycles, it turns on with the control on button, and if I quickly move the selector to an automatic cycle it starts and runs the cycle just fine..

It seems like the electronic control (one with the selector) is bad, but I run the self test and it reports all selector, led and button functions operating correctly. This makes me think I have a bad control board (the one on the side of the cabinet.) Have you ever seen this particular behavior? Does my logic make sense regarding which board is bad?

================================================== ========================
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