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Timer not advancing, but the timer is good.

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I have an old dryer that I got for free. And when I say old, I mean REALLY old. It's

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Old 12-17-2013, 01:42 AM
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Default Timer not advancing, but the timer is good.
Model Number: LHI6901N0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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I have an old dryer that I got for free. And when I say old, I mean REALLY old. It's so old that the Sears Parts Direct website didn't even list it!! I don't know any of its history. I took EVERY nut and bolt off and COMPLETELY restored it and it is literally as clean as a brand new unit, inside and out. Lubed the pulleys and motor and just really cleaned it up.


I had to replace a gas solenoid but other than that it seems to work perfectly. Except, I noticed that the timer does not seem to advance when using the AUTO cycle. On the TIMED cycle, it does advance correctly so the timer is not bad. I put my volt meter on the timer and it does get 115 volts in the TIMED cycle. But here's the weird part, in the AUTO cycle, my meter read only 94 volts AC. Huh?? I have heard that some units have a large resistor that power gets shunted to. Mine does not have this anywhere behind the control panel so I dont think thats the culprit. So then I thought that there is a thermostat and/or thermal fuse that power has to go through to allow the timer to get voltage. Clearly any fuse can't be blown as no voltage would reach the timer. Why would it only get 94 volts during this cycle? I can hear the timer trying to run but maybe 94 volts isn't enough to juice to actually advance it. I've search all over the internet but can't find this exact problem. Any ideas? I have an ohm and volt meter and very used to testing things so hit me with ideas.


Thanks!!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2013, 12:46 PM
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Default Similar problem with Kenmore

I have a 15-year old Kenmore dryer doing the same thing. There is a timer switch on my model that changes the timer output from a nearly direct connection to neutral (only the door switch intervenes) to a convoluted connection through some of the ignitor components and the flame switch.

As near as I can tell, the purpose of this connection is to make sure the burner has cooled off before advancing the timer. In my case to OFF.

If I run the dryer in Auto (which I never do), it uses the same convoluted connection, presumably to make sure things have cooled off before advancing.

What I can't tell is whether the timer fails to run in this configuration because there is too much downstream resistance (ignitor failing, for example) or because the timer motor is failing. Both the ignitor and the timer motor have resistance within the range called out on my Kenmore schematic.

Last edited by apphack : 12-22-2013 at 12:47 PM. Reason: clarify which motor
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Old 12-22-2013, 02:06 PM
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Default

Apphack,
You have a different manufacturer and model number. I also dont know if your problem is the same as mine. Therefore, please create your own thread as I'd rather not confuse the issue in my thread as to the problem with my dryer.
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Old 12-25-2013, 08:39 AM
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Post a photo of your wiring diagram.

Eric
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Old 12-25-2013, 11:07 PM
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I wish I could. Nowhere on the inside or out is a wiring diagram. I ohm'ed out the three snap-disc thermostats and one gave weird, fluctuating readings so I replaced it. It was the one that opens at 140 and closes back at 120. Unfortunately, replacing it did not have an affect on the timer receiving low voltage during an AUTO cycle. The thermal fuse tested out good as well.

Not sure how to get a wiring diagram. I've searched all over the internet but didn't find one (this unit is ooold). I took pics of the back of the timer wiring, the gas valve assembly (two wire unit, not three) the motor wiring, back of the control panel and back of t-stat area. If posting those would help, let me know and I'll put them up. We may not have a diagram but that would at least show the actual wiring and colors, etc.

I put a lot of time in restoring this thing so the problem is a little frustrating cuz it's the only one of about 5 issues that didn't get resolved. Now all else works as new with it except this. And since this thing is a REALLY simple design with no fancy circuit boards and digital readouts I was sure I'd find the culprit by now. : (
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