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Hi, I had a backed up lint trap, cleaned it out and now the dryer has no heat and runs then shows AD. I did the the error codes test and these are the codes I got.
FLD r06
E04
FLD E56 025
C01 00 165
101 FLD 139
076 FLD
FLD.
Do you know what the problem is? I already reset my home breaker and unplugged the dryer and plugged it back in and did a reset.
Thanks
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The "ad" in the display simply means it is in an Auto Dry cycle. I suspect you have an open thermal fuse if the vent was restricted. Do you have a meter to test continuity with?
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Here are your parts Parts for Frigidaire AEQ7000ES1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comI cannot find any info on the given E codes. If the given E56 is actually an E5B then this is just a no heat error which you already know. Here is the tech sheet http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...r/134682200ts_wd_EFS.pdfI doubt it is the thermal fuse as it looks like if the thermal fuse blew the motor would not run on this unit. I would start by checking the power to the unit. the control board and motor run off of 120 volts but the heater requires the full 240 volts. Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker. Check the voltage at the plug L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If OK Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out If OK Check the power at the terminal strip. Do this with the heater off and on. [COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR] If the power is OK then unplug the unit and check the heating coil and then the hi-limit thermostat with a meter. Note that if the high limit is blown be sure to check that the heating element is not grounded. Also check the thermistor just to be sure that it is OK. Below is a link to a service manual which may come in handy. You will have to join the site to be able to download manuals. http://appliancejunk.com...&id=259;t=1384861237 |
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Hi, I don't have a way to check the voltage. I'm going to try replacing the heating coils. I hope that's all it is.
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Rank: Member
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/18/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/12/2013(UTC)
Posts: 957
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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Thanks,I replaced heating element, it was burnt and broken, but still no heat and dryer runs and then says add after running for a bit. I guess I need a tester to test the other parts listed.:confused:
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Rank: Member
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The L1 side of the voltage to the element comes from the control, through the high limit thermostat and to the heater. The L2 side comes from the motor. So, if you have proper power supply voltage, one of those three components is likely faulty. You may have luck turning the breaker totally off then back on as when the element shorted, it may have tripped the L2 side of the supply. If still no heat, you will need a meter to test voltage with.
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