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Heating but not drying, continuity checked, lint free
Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/1/2013(UTC)
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Hello, I am having a drying issue I can't seem to pin point and need help. I always use the 'Energy Preferred' setting but for some reason this will not dry my clothes, they are either still wet or damp.
Here is what I've done:
-Cleaned the lint filter, vacuumed the inside of the blower wheel, and entire dryer, replaced exhaust duct... basically everything is lint free
-Checked AC voltage at the wall and I am getting 240v
-Checked voltage at the machine confirming voltage from the wall
-Checked continuity on the high limit thermostat 0.03 ohms
-Checked continuity on the cycling thermostat 0.02 ohms and the other pins measured around 7000 ohms
-Checked thermal fuse continuity and got 0.02 ohms
-Checked the thermostat at the heating element and got 0.02 ohms
-Replaced the heating element and checked it also after running the dryer and got 9.5 ohms. I also had a spare heating element I tried with no change.
The heating element glows bright at first, then turns off, then back on, and so on. I am thinking this is normal. The exhaust coming out blows strong and warm. This dryer gets used nearly everyday, if not every other day. What am I missing? Please help!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool LER6620PQ0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for your tech sheet. I am not sure what 'Energy Preferred' is so do not know what is the circuit path for this option. I am assuming it is a low heat auto cycle. First check that the clothes are coming out of the washer damp and not wet. I have seen some folks tear he dryer apart and then finally find out it is a washer problem and not a dryer problem. Check your exhaust temperature. set the unit to timed dry, hi heat. The exhaust temperature should be around 155 as a high and then 130 as a low. That is the spec of the operating thermostat opens at 155 and then closes at 120. |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/1/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5
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Thanks for your quick reply.
Energy Preferred is a high heat setting on automatic dry.
When pulling clothes from the washer they are damp, but not wet. I cannot wring water out of them with my hands.
I tested the exhaust temp with a digital thermometer and the highest temp I got was 106F after a few minutes of being on.
When looking at the old heating element and the good one I pulled out, I noticed 3 or the 5 springs on one side are burnt looking, not black.... just 'used', while the other 2 look as though they haven't been heated at all. Not sure why this is or if that matters.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
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Your exhaust temperature does look low.
I am not sure what the discolor horizontally across the heating coils is.
Check that the vents where the air enters the coils are clean. Also check that the holes where the heated air enters the drum are clean.
When you checked the heating element did you check that irt was not grounded?
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.
If the above are OK the unplug the unit and check the timer contacts BK/BU to V is open (infinite ohms). These should disconnect the operating thermostat's internal heater when in a high heat mode. |
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/1/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5
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I checked the heating element wasn't grounded and it wasn't... from each coil to frame it was open with wires disconnected. With wires still disconnected, i checked the element resistance resistance and got 9.5 ohms. Then I checked the timer contacts from BK to V and from BU to V and it was open. Here is what the heating element looks like. They all seem do this, and I changed it out and installed the spare I had with the same result. Is this normal?    skrapmetal attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
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Hard to tell but it looks OK to me.
The coils further away from the air intake end will have more heat/discoloration as the are in a hotter spot on the heater assembly.
All I can suggest is to re[place the operating thermostat perhaps that is what is causing your low exhaust temperatures. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/1/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5
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Thanks. I will give that a shot and reply back.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/1/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5
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I think that did the trick! I replaced the part you suggested even though it measured good with my meter and now my exhaust temps are between 120F and 140F. Thanks so much Denman! :D
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Heating but not drying, continuity checked, lint free
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