Dryer Overheating When Turned Off
I have read through the other posts, but can't find a problem that's quite identical to mine, which is why I'm adding a new thread.
I walked into the laundry room the other day and smelled burning electrical wires. The dryer was run earlier in the day. When I started investigating, I found the top and back of the housing to be too hot to touch. I unplugged it and it cooled down, then I plugged it back in to try and determine the problem. What I discovered is that when the dryer is on any temperature setting other than Air Dry, it gets too hot to touch. It doesn't matter if there is time left on the timer or not (in other words, it can be Off, and still overheat). As long as the blower is running, the housing does not overheat. It only starts to overheat when the blower motor shuts off.
Using another troubleshooting website, the diagnosis was a bad control thermostat. I ordered and replaced that part today, but the problem still persists. As long as I keep the dryer unplugged when not in use, it is fine.
Another website suggested that I have a grounded heating element, but I don't understand this diagnosis. Wouldn't the power to the heating element be turned off when the dryer timer was off? I don't mind spending money to fix this issue, but I'd like to fix it once and fix it right. Can anyone suggest a reason why the heating element stays on all the time whether or not the timer is on?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Here are your parts
Parts for Frigidaire FERB7800DS0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is the wiring diagram
Can anyone suggest a reason why the heating element stays on all the time whether or not the timer is on?
You may have two problems.
Power to the heater is shut off on one side (L1) by the time contacts A/B, the other side (L2) is shut off by the centrifugal switch (M1/M2) on the motor.
Could be that on of these is staying closed and that the heater coil is grounded.
I would start with the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on.
Then put the timer off where the unit still heats.
Check from the timer side of the heating coil to L1, it should be infinite ohms.
Check from the other side of the heating coil to L2, it should also be infinite ohms.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start o
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