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Hello. Second time here, and I am really confused by conflicting information on the Appliance Parts Pro website in regards

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Old 09-30-2013, 07:05 AM
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Default Need info on testing "cycling thermostat"
Model Number: NDG2335AWW   Brand: Amana   Age: 1 - 5 years   

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


Hello. Second time here, and I am really confused by conflicting information on the Appliance Parts Pro website in regards to my particular model. Here's the deal.
I'm in the middle of repairing my daughters Amana gas dryer. The problem is no heat. Dryer runs fine. After researching the Model, viewing repair videos on youtube, it turns out there are only a few things that can cause this. After doing all the diagnostic "continuity" checks recommended in the videos, I only have one part left to diagnose. However, this part, located on the blower housing, has 5 connections, and I don't know which connections to check for continuity, if indeed you can. That is why I came here. After finding the correct model page, I am referring to part #31 in the manual, found here...

01-Base, Heater & Motor (gas) parts for Amana NDG2335AWW - AppliancePartsPros.com

In the diagram noted as "Base, Heater & Motor", this part is shown closest to the blower housing, which is where it is mounted in reality. However, looking at the replacement part in the list of parts, it's called a "Cycling Thermostat". Unfortunately, it doesn't look the same. The part in the dryer has 5 connections, while the part in the manual only shows 3. The electrical schematic also shows this Cycling Thermostat with 3 connections. No parts in the schematic show 5 connections. Weird.
On the Cycling Thermostat PAGE, I clicked on the "diagram", and it took me to the Blower/Motor diagram, which noted at the bottom, this part is #12.

Further confusing, is the video, which you can click on at the specific part page. In the video, this part is shown with 4 connections.
Moreover, when I saw a "Thermal Fuse"(#33) in list of parts, thinking it might be this part, I clicked on this part, and went to the part page. On that page, as all part pages have, you can click on the "diagram". As part #33 did NOT appear in the "Base, Heater & Motor" diagram, I clicked on it, and it took me to another diagram, where at the bottom, it noted this part is #4 in this diagram. Looking at the diagram, this part is associated with an ELECTRIC HEATER COIL part. Now I'm really confused, as I can't find this THERMAL FUSE in my dryer diagram, so I click on the video for the Thermal Fuse, only to see a video on...you got it..a CYCLING THERMOSTAT.



Anyway, I've checked for continuity in all the other parts that effect the operation, except for this part and the gas valve coils. However, I don't understand how to diagnose this part. So, long story short, does anyone have a link to the actual part(with 5 connections)?? And is there a way to check it for continuity? And is this the correct name?

Which brings up another delima.
While researching this part, I found a thread here regarding the same type problem, but different dryer.
Amana gas dryer wont heat
The reply suggested to the author that the gas valve "coils" may be the problem, and provided a link to the replacement part. I clicked on it, and took me to that page, where you can insert your own Model# for compatibility, which I did in case all the other parts proved to be good.
Unfortunately, it said "no coils were available for this model". Dang. The complete "valve assembly" is close to $200, which is ridiculous. I can buy another dryer for less than that. However, does anyone know of another source for coil replacements? It may turn out I don't need them, but I thought I would ask since I'm already here.

Thanks for any help.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 09:05 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Amana NDG2335AWW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

If you click on a art's description a new page will open with more info about that part.

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

the two connectors on the round part of the thermostat is the internal heater in the thermostat. I do not have a spec on it but they are usually around 5,000 to 10,000 ohms.
The other three are the common and the Normally Open and Normally closed contacts.

Here is a service manual which covers this unit.
http://appliancejunk.com/forums/inde...a=view;down=27
You will have to join the site to be able to download the manual.
it is under manuals (16026315 Maytag Dryer Service Repair Manual)
Attached Images
File Type: pdf NDG2335.pdf (162.8 KB, 9 views)
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Old 10-01-2013, 03:06 PM
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Hello denman, and thank you for the reply.

As I mentioned, I already had the manual and even provided a link. And I explored it thoroughly. In the list of parts, there is no thermostat with 5 lugs. At least from what I can find. And I already explained that..in depth. Part #31. Look at it.
Three lugs. Unless you can explain how to use it in leu of no 5 lug?
I did a continuity check on every part that is shown in the diagram relative to these circuits including this part. I did get continuity on the two outside lugs, but the other three is what I don't understand. I don't know how to INTERPRET the results. I get nothing from one pair, about 7 ohms on another, and continuity on the third pair. What I do know is this.
The igniter glows. All the other electrical parts tested continuity per instructions on a youtube video.
So either the "thermostat" with 5 lugs is bad, which I still don't understand how to test correctly, or the gas valve coils, which also I don't know how to test.

However, even if I knew how to test it correctly, seems a moot point now that I know there is no thermostat with 5 lugs listed in the AppliancePartPro parts list, and the valve assembly is almost $200. Guess I'll just look for another dryer. Seems kinda weird though a thermostat with 5 lugs isn't available, nor is a set of coils for this particular gas valve.
They must have made a million or more of these as they are produced under many brands..all owned by Whirlpool. Anyway, thanks again.
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Old 10-01-2013, 03:17 PM
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Ok, I just saw something. On the page for the 3 lug "thermostat", there is a text field next to the picture, where you can insert the Model # for "compatibility" of this part. I did it, and it says this part is "compatible".

Question is...HOW? Which 3 wires from the 5 lug thermo would I attach, an which would I leave off, or connect together..or what ever?

That is..if it were bad...which I don't know it's bad yet, because I don't know how to check it correctly! Any ideas? I'm hoping this part is bad, and I can simply replace it..vs..a new gas valve assembly. Ain't happenin. Not for almost $200 That's plain ridiculous.
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Old 10-02-2013, 04:10 AM
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Part #31. Look at it.
Sorry but you lost me.
I did look at the thermostat at AppliancePartsPros, I see 5 lugs
Even the one in the v1deo for replacing a thermostat is 4 lug.
See the picture.

You cannot use a 3 lug instead of a 5 lug, you would loose at least some of the features of the unit.

Perhaps if I refer to the wiring diagram in the parts using the wire colors it will help you check it.

The Black to White is the internal heater so it should be OK as you get continuity.
I think PU is purple.
Purple to blue is the normally close contacts. Should be 0 ohms at room temperature.
I think this is the 7 ohms you see this is probably just the contacts are a bit dirty.
Purple to Orange is the normally open contacts. Should be infinite ohms at room temperature.

FYI: When the thermostat reaches its set point temperature the contacts activate so now Purple to Blue is infinite ohms and Purple to Orange is 0 ohms.

The igniter glows.
The above is from your second to last post.
I did not see where you mentioned this earlier.
Since the igniter glows the unit is calling for heat so the problem is not the thermostat.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Tstat.jpg (23.1 KB, 25 views)
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Sorry but you lost me.
I did look at the thermostat at AppliancePartsPros, I see 5 lugs
OMG! Now that you pointed the connections out...holy moly. I couldn't see the other two connections. Sheeezus..what an idiot.

Quote:
Perhaps if I refer to the wiring diagram in the parts using the wire colors it will help you check it.
Thanks. But considering this...
Quote:
Since the igniter glows the unit is calling for heat so the problem is not the thermostat.
..I guess it makes checking it a moot exercise. Now that I know that, and given every other part checks out...I guess this clinches it. Something in the gas valve, most likely the coils, is the culprit, right? Well, if so, I guess it's time to either find a CHEAP replacement or another dryer, cause I can't afford the price of the unit at AppliancePartPro. Ok, I appreciate the help
denman. And sorry I didn't see that part had 5 lugs. It wasn't clear.

Thanks a million.
fitz
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:33 AM
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One more thing. This is why I came here. Definitive help. THANK YOU. Another living proof this forum lives up to it's purpose. Not only did it help me understand how a gas dryer works, and it's quite simple...I got my answer too.
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Old 10-02-2013, 08:05 AM
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You could do some additional testing on the gas section, see the manual.

I did look up the unit at Sears and their price was a lot less.

As far as a cheap replacement I would not go for a used one unless you get it local with a warranty that you can return it and get your money back if it does not work.
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Old 10-02-2013, 11:45 AM
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Hello denman. Thanks for the additional info. Not being one to give up easy, usually because I need something fixed and very little moola to work with, I kept searching for more info on the gas valve/coils. Lo and behold, through one little reply on "fixya", I found this page,
http://www.********************.com/...t-enough-heat/

...which listed various parts that would fix..."NO HEAT". As weird as it is, the gas valve/coils were NOT listed. Just out of curiosity, I clicked the "flame sensor" and came to this page...

http://www.********************.com/...ot-enough-heat

which, down below from the picture, was a little list of parts, which listed..voila! COILS! Here they are.
http://www.********************.com/...?SourceCode=10

These were listed under the Amana model#, so I ASSUME..these are the correct ones. How would I validate that?

However, I'm still a little confused, as I checked the resistance per specs on the coils themself(per your link) and they were within tolerance. So..at this point I'm..well..unsure what to do?? Any ideas? There was no other info in the manual on testing the valve.

Oh, btw, something I failed to mention earlier was the fact this unit uses PROPANE. I don't know if that makes a difference but thought I might mention it just in case. I know my daughter uses Propane for her stove too, and they had to do something to it to use propane, although I don't know what they did. Anyway, thanks for keeping up with me here. My daughter lives next door, and with three kids, she really needs this dryer ASAP. AND, we just moved here last week, and don't have a dryer yet ourselves. So we use it too. Hence..WE NEED IT!!


Oh, one other thing. On the attachment page you linked...there was this under "troubleshooting":
Igniter glows - No gas ignition. If the igniter heats up but the
main burner flame is not ignited, remove power and using an
ohmmeter, check the following:
• Open secondary coil.
• Open holding coil.
• Open wire harness.
Stuck flame sensor (Stuck closed).
• Check Holding coil term 1 and 2, 1365 ohms
25 ohms. Secondary coil term 4 and 5, 1220 ohms 25
ohms.

Wouldn't a "stuck(closed) flame sensor still read continuity? And if it's stuck..what happens?

Last edited by 3dDetailer : 10-02-2013 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 10-02-2013, 01:00 PM
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OMG. My "cognitive dissonance" neuron just clicked on in relationship to this...

Quote:
the two connectors on the round part of the thermostat is the internal heater in the thermostat. I do not have a spec on it but they are usually around 5,000 to 10,000 ohms.
I was thinking about that, because something didn't add up, so I went and checked the resistance, as I WASN'T thinking before. Low and behold...Infinity resistance between those lugs on the round part of the thermostat. Totally open. Well, I'm thinking now this part is the problem. But THEN..you said this....

Quote:
Since the igniter glows the unit is calling for heat so the problem is not the thermostat.
This kind of stuff drives me crazy. Any ideas how to EXACTLY diagnose this?

Thanks again.
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