Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/9/2009(UTC) Posts: 3
|
my admiral dryer wont run. the timer/start knob does not stay in to start the dryer. i replaced the timer assembly and the resistor and still nothing. the knob still does not stay in and i laso have no light inside the drum when the door is open. anyone have a suggestion. i can't afford to replace things parts by part till i get it right.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Here are your parts includes the wiring diagram. Wiring information (series 15 elec) replacement parts for ADMIRAL ADE7000AYW | AppliancePartsPros.com♦ my admiral dryer wont run. the timer/start knob does not stay in to start the dryer. Does it start and then stop when you release the knob? I do not believe the knob should stay in, once the dryer starts it gets power to keep running through the centrifugal/motor switch 2B to 7 and timer contact M/L. i replaced the timer assembly and the resistor and still nothing. If timer contacts M/L were shot in the timer this could have been the problem. The resistor has nothing to do with starting . i laso have no light inside the drum when the door is open. anyone have a suggestion. This could be the clue to the problem. You will see that the thermal fuse is before the door switch which provides power to the inside light so the first thing I would check is the thermal fuse, Item 5 in the "Heater" section. Remove one wire from it and check it with a meter, should be 0 ohms. There is a jiggery pokery method for checking it. Unplug the unit Remove the wires from the fuse Short them together Tape them up so they do not short to the frame/case Plug it in and give it a try. If it is blown replace it ASAP as it is a critical safety device. If it is blown then give the interior a good cleaning including the blower wheel. Also clean/check your vent system. Also make sure the lint filter is clean and not clogged up with softener residue. If the fuse is OK then next would be to check the door switch. i can't afford to replace things parts by part till i get it right. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
|
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/9/2009(UTC) Posts: 3
|
re:admiral ade7000afw that wouldn't start
followed your instructions and found it was the thermal fuse. its out of stock but on order. jumped the wires to confirm it but won't use the dryer until the new fuse is in. looks a little tight to get the old one out but i should be able to figure it out. thanks for the help.
mikey
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close