Discuss

Roper dryer does nothing

 in

Dryer Repair

. "

Ok, here's the story: A few days ago the dryer quit heating. It would come on and spin, but blow

..."
 
 
Register | FAQ's | New Posts | Today's Posts | Extras
Appliance Repair Forum > Appliance Repair Help > Dryer Repair » Roper dryer does nothing

Post New Thread  Reply By reading any content on this site you agree to AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc. disclaimer and Terms of Use.
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2013, 04:01 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 3
Influencer is on a distinguished road
Default Roper dryer does nothing
Brand: Roper   Age: 1 - 5 years   

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


Ok, here's the story:

A few days ago the dryer quit heating. It would come on and spin, but blow out cold air. I pulled the vent hose and it was clogged up pretty good, so i took it off and cleaned it out, pulled the vent shaft out and cleaned it out as well. Did a little troubleshooting and found that the high-limit cutoff was fried so I ordered a new kit.

Here's a picture of what I got:


Replaced both and started the dryer up, I had heat!!! Ran for about 3 minutes and then stopped. Now it will not turn on at all.

If I bypass the thermal fuse it runs and I get heat, so I know the fuse is blown. My question is, what happened or what should I check to know why the fuse blew? Before the cutoff fried before I never had a problem with cycling or anything.

Reply With Quote
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2013, 04:30 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 916
HumboldtRepairMan is on a distinguished road
Default

First off ohm/continuity check the new parts before you put them in.......they should read infinity both those cutoffs you have in the picture brand new parts are sometimes defective to begin with. Depends on if it's gas or electric. The smaller thermal cut off or limiter usually blows when there's a blockage in the line. Best way to check to see if you have a air vent blockage issue is disconnect the hose from the wall and run it for awhile with heat.....if the cut off doesn't blow you know it's blockage in your air vent leading out of your house. If venting isn't an issue if it's gas it may be a possible sticking coil and if that's not the case take a thermometer and put it in the exhaust/lint trap area dryer max temps should be only 190-200 max anything past that may blow the thermal fuse or cut offs. Next thing to check is to make sure your operating fuse (typically a 4 wire connection next to thermal fuse on more then likely the blower housing) One side should read infinity and the other should read 0 if you do a continuity test if you don't get those readings then you have a bad operating thermostat that's allowing the unit to run to hot and blowing your cutoffs. Your unit may also have a thermister in replacement of a operating thermostat which essentially is the same thing but you didn't mention a model number. The picture you have does not consist of the operating thermostats those just look like burn chamber cut off therms. Good luck
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2013, 05:11 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 3
Influencer is on a distinguished road
Default

Sorry for the lack of info, funny the things we forget to mention.

Its an electric unit, I'd love to give a model number but I can't find one ANYWHERE. I've looked inside the door, on the back panel, on the back panel of the timer unit, inside the back of the dryer, everywhere!

The parts are supposedly a thermal cutoff and a high-limit thermostat.

I tested the parts to ensure they worked, the first set I got didn't work so I made sure to test these first.

I cleaned the ventilation system completely, taking the duct that goes from the lint filter to the exit off and cleaning it out, then I took the aluminum flex hose off, straightened it out and blew it out, visually checking afterwards to ensure no blockage. At first it was blocked off and I'm sure that's why the thermal cutoff blew the first time.

After replacing the cutoff and high-limit thermostat everything ran fine but got really hot, about 3 minutes later it shut off and I couldn't get it to turn back on. I let it sit and cool off and tried again, still nothing.

I then jumped the thermal fuse and everything worked as long as I had the jumper in place, removing it and nothing worked again so I know its the thermal fuse that is blown now.

My question is why did the thermal fuse blow. It appears it could be the thermostat or a grounded element. I don't have an ohm-meter handy to test right now so I'm posting here trying to narrow down what the problems could be or atleast further my knowledge on the internal workings of the dryer.

So, to sum it up, jumping the thermal fuse the dryer works, heating element comes on, it just never appears to turn off and keeps heating up. The dryer was REALLY hot after the few minutes it ran.
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2013, 05:24 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 916
HumboldtRepairMan is on a distinguished road
Default

A grounded element will usually stay hot if the unit is plugged into the wall period irregardless if you have the timer on or off which is dangerous. Ok first it was a thermal cutoff that blew now it's a thermal fuse......They are two different things located in two different parts of the unit so which is it? Both these items blow from either vent blockage or unit getting too hot. Try ohming out the heating element itself and doing a visual inspection and making sure the coils aren't touching the casing. Without a multimeter you can't do anything..........get one 10-15 bucks at the auto parts store.
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2013, 05:28 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 3
Influencer is on a distinguished road
Default

The thermal cutoff blew first, I replaced it along with the hi-limit thermostat.

Now the Thermal fuse is blown.

I'll be getting a multimeter tomorrow, I had used my dads to test the parts when I first got them, but will be buying my own to continue testing the dryer.
Reply With Quote
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Roper Dryer mdfixer Dryer Repair 5 11-03-2011 05:33 PM
Roper Gas Dryer dbrown2 Dryer Repair 0 05-30-2011 08:36 AM
Roper Dryer dean6883 Dryer Repair 1 10-13-2010 04:08 PM
roper gas dryer shar16bear Dryer Repair 0 12-14-2009 10:40 AM
roper dryer dickeydew Dryer Repair 1 03-29-2009 02:13 PM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:18 AM.

The content on this web site is for informational purposes only and is not intended to replace an on-site diagnosis from a qualified appliance service technician. By reading any content on this site you agree to AppliancePartsPros.com , Inc. disclaimer and Terms of Use.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17