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My Dryer lost heat now won't start

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My girlfriend was washing clothes while I was at work today. She said it was taking a few times of

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2013, 07:20 PM
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Default My Dryer lost heat now won't start
Model Number: RED4440VQ1   Brand: Roper   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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My girlfriend was washing clothes while I was at work today. She said it was taking a few times of running to get things dry. On the last load she went down to check and the clothes were still wet. The dryer wasn't running. She was using the auto sense drive and it was still on low dry. She pushed the start button to restart and nothing happened. She turned the timer all the way around to start again and it still wouldn't start.

When I got home, I did some research and tested the following:

I have ~240v at the wall and at the cord connections to the dryer.
I have ~115v at the L1 to ground and L2 to ground.
The door switch has continuity when closed and open when open.
The "push2start" button has continuity (w/ slight resistance) when pushed.
The "thermal cutoff" has continuity.
The "thermal fuse" has continuity.
The "heater coil" has continuity.
The "thermostat heater" has continuity (w/ slight resistance).
The "operating thermostat" has continuity.
The "hi-limit thermostat" has continuity.

I did everything in this video Whirlpool - Kenmore - Maytag Dryer Not Heating Repair - YouTube

I also took out the time and gave it a little shake. There sounds like a small piece in rattling around in there. Is there a way for me to test the timer and also test the motor? Any other ideas would be great.

Thanks
Billy


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2013, 02:34 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

Set the timer mid scale normal heat.
Then check across C to B on the timer should be 0 ohms.
If it is OK, then attach one meter lead to L1 on the line cord and leave it there.
Then work your way back through the motor circuit.

A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
This does not apply when you are checking a circuit path but use the most sensitive meter scale.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf RED4440.pdf (138.3 KB, 4 views)
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:59 AM
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Thanks. They were open between the contacts. I replaced the timer and it works great.

Thanks again.
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:46 AM
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You are welcome

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.
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