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I have checked continuity on the element and both of the switches or thermostats in the heater box and they check to be good. I also checked the two switches, i think one is a thermosister in the blower chamber and they check to be good. I also checked the voltage going to the element with the dryer running and got 240 volts across the two leads that attach to the element. Can you point me in the right direction on what to look at next?
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Originally Posted by: Whead  I have checked continuity on the element and both of the switches or thermostats in the heater box and they check to be good. I also checked the two switches, i think one is a thermistor in the blower chamber and they check to be good. I also checked the voltage going to the element with the dryer running and got 240 volts across the two leads that attach to the element. Can you point me in the right direction on what to look at next? Whead, We're having difficulty finding a wiring or parts diagrams using the model number you supplied. However, if you have 240 VAC across the wires to the heater element, the heater circuit is in tact and operating properly. You'll need to visually re check the heater element for possible cracks or breaks in the element. You'll also need to check the thermistor resistance, you should have approximately 10 K ohms resistance across the terminals at room temperature, not an "open" or "closed" circuit. If you continue to have an issue, please re post with a proper complete model number, so we can better assist you. Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Originally Posted by: Whead I have checked continuity on the element and both of the switches or thermostats in the heater box and they check to be good. I also checked the two switches, i think one is a thermosister in the blower chamber and they check to be good. I also checked the voltage going to the element with the dryer running and got 240 volts across the two leads that attach to the element. Can you point me in the right direction on what to look at next? Whead, We're having difficulty finding a wiring or parts diagrams using the model number you supplied. However, if you have 240 VAC across the wires to the heater element, the heater circuit is in tact and operating properly. You'll need to visually re check the heater element for possible cracks or breaks in the element. You'll also need to check the thermistor resistance, you should have approximately 10 K ohms resistance across the terminals at room temperature, not an "open" or "closed" circuit. If you continue to have an issue, please re post with a proper complete model number, so we can better assist you. Thanks
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/10/2013(UTC)
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The model number on the back of the dryer is DV419AEW/XAA. It was bought at Lowes. The thermosistor did have about 10 ohms of resistance. I completely removed the element and visually checked it. I also check continuity and the meter was set on the 2000k setting and it went to 0. As I also said I checked the voltage at the element itself when it was running and it showed 240 volts.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Originally Posted by: Whead The model number on the back of the dryer is DV419AEW/XAA. It was bought at Lowes. The thermosistor did have about 10 ohms of resistance. I completely removed the element and visually checked it. I also check continuity and the meter was set on the 2000k setting and it went to 0. As I also said I checked the voltage at the element itself when it was running and it showed 240 volts. Whead, Recheck the wires to the element. from each wire to chassis ground there should be 120 VAC, re attach the wires to the element and recheck for 240 VAC across the wires. If the voltages are correct, then the heater element is at fault. Part number: AP4201899
It may have a resistance reading, but it can't "carry" the load (voltage).
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