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sciphan  
#1 Posted : Friday, April 19, 2013 5:18:10 PM(UTC)
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sciphan

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/19/2013(UTC)
Posts: 2

Having a running, non-heating dryer: Kenmore 110.64922200

I have checked:
thermal cutoff - shows 0 ohms
operating thermostat - shows 0 ohms
high limit thermostat - shows 0 ohms
thermal fuse - shows 0 ohms
heating element - within 7.8 to 11.8 ohms

What am I missing? I even tried to bypass things to make sure I didn't have a faulty multimeter. If this points to be a faulty timer, how would I check for this? I have checked the voltage on it shows 120 V from middle to outside and 240V from outsides. I would attach a link to the wiring diagram, but I do not know how to images.

Thanks in advance.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Saturday, April 20, 2013 2:04:35 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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Here are your parts
Parts for Kenmore Dryer 11064922200 - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram, just to be sure we are looking at the same diagram.

Unplug the unit and attach one meter lead to the L1 prong on the line cord.
Leave it there.
Set the timer to mid cycle, timed dry and your meter to it's most sensitive scale.
Short the meter leads together to see if there is any zero offset in the meter.

Now work your way back through the heater circuit.
Both sides of timer switch 2 should be 0 ohms.
All sides of the hi-limit, the thermal cutoff, the operating thermostat and the thermal fuse should be 0 ohms.
One side of the heater should be 0 ohms, the other side should be about 10 ohms.

If all OK then the problem is from the heater to L2.
Could be a wiring problem, a bad switch or a bad mechanism in the motor re: not closing the centrifugal switch when the motor gets close to operating speed. May even be a bad L2 wire in the line cord.
Could be the motor is clogged solid with lint causing a problem.
File Attachment(s):
64922200.pdf (272kb) downloaded 6 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
sciphan  
#3 Posted : Saturday, April 20, 2013 4:23:45 AM(UTC)
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sciphan

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/19/2013(UTC)
Posts: 2

I appreciate the response. After a couple of days of headaches and research, I just replaced one of my fuses in the fuse box. When I think about it, when I checked the lines for voltage it did show an intermittent voltage. I thought it was just due to the $5 multimeter I was using. I appreciate your prompt response. This is a great forum.

Thanks again.
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