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another dryer won't heat post...please advise

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I tested the power coming in at 240 I recently replaced heater element and tested 8 ohms tested thermal fuse

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Old 04-13-2013, 09:49 AM
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Default another dryer won't heat post...please advise
Model Number: medb400vq0   Brand: -brand-   Age: Less than 1 year   

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I tested the power coming in at 240
I recently replaced heater element and tested 8 ohms
tested thermal fuse no break...0 ohms
tested thermostat at 10k room temp
Tested both thermal cut-off and high limit thermostat inline with heater element at 0 ohms each
Wiring looks sound and also checked wiring by control panel

Dryer does come on and tumbles properly just no heat....element does not come on and appears to not be getting any power. Pulled Maytag tech sheet and it recommended checking P46 and P43 red wires at the control panel...I measured 10k which means I need a new control panel according to the tech sheet...does this sound right? I would prefer to not buy if it is likely to be something else. Also does appliance pros take back components that do not solve problem? Thanks.


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Last edited by jstatuto : 04-13-2013 at 09:53 AM.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2013, 07:25 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag MEDB400VQ0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

I measured 10k which means I need a new control panel according to the tech sheet...does this sound right?
It is most likely the control board.
One other possibility would be a bad centrifugal switch on the motor but the board is more likely.
You could confirm this by shorting across heater relay contacts/connector.
Plug it in and give it a try. If it heats up then there is a problem on the control board. If there is no heat then odds are a problem with the centrifugal switch.


Also does appliance pros take back components that do not solve problem?

Yes, please see their return policy.
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Old 04-14-2013, 12:12 PM
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Thanks...how do I short the relay? I want to make sure I do this safely and am a novice.

Last edited by jstatuto : 04-14-2013 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:34 PM
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I am not exactly sure.

The heater relay contacts look like it should be a separate plug so you should be able to disconnect it and then put a jumper wire across the connector. A stripped piece of 14 gauge wire should do. There is a fair amount of current there.

Just be sure it cannot short out to anything re: frame, etc.
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Last edited by denman : 04-14-2013 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:27 PM
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Thanks for your help. I will report back when I have had the chance to run the test.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:01 PM
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Hello....I received the control board and replaced. I still have the same problem. I am assuming by the process of elimination it is the centrifugal switch on the motor. I also ran the diagnostic check for power at the electronic interface am getting 120 v. Can I by the switch separately or does it come with the motor? Thanks
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:48 AM
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It is part of the motor,

You could check if this is the problem by unplugging the wires and shorting them together with a small jumper,. Again making sure that they cannot short to anything or get caught in the belt.drum.

You have to be careful that it does not heat up without the motor running.
So if it does start to heat up open the door to stop it.
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