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this_is_nascar  
#1 Posted : Saturday, April 6, 2013 7:19:31 PM(UTC)
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this_is_nascar

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My wife always uses the timed-drying setting on our Kenmore unit. This unit has something called a Wrinkle Guard II. Recently, my wife has informed me that when the dryer stops after its 90-minute timed-dry cycle, the clothes and inside of the dryer is burning hot when the cycle completes. We always use the "Ultra Delicate/Extra Low" temperature setting, which is one step warmer than the "Air Fluff/No Heat" setting.

Up until now, my wife says the clothes and inside of the dryer are normally only slightly warm at the end of the cycle, whereas now, they are extremely hot. It almost feels that it's drying on the hottest drying setting and not lowering in temperature toward the end of the cycle. It also seems to be now that even on the "Air Fluff/No Heat" cycle, heat is being produced.

Any advise or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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this_is_nascar  
#2 Posted : Sunday, April 7, 2013 3:51:27 AM(UTC)
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this_is_nascar

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Can any one of the experts please help me with this or offer up some suggestions? I'd really appreciate it.
this_is_nascar  
#3 Posted : Sunday, April 7, 2013 3:29:37 PM(UTC)
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Pretty please :) .
denman  
#4 Posted : Monday, April 8, 2013 3:01:52 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Kenmore Dryer 11062952100 - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

You may have a grounded element.
Unplug the unit and both wires at the heating element.
Measure across the element should be 8 to 12 ohms.
Then measure from each element connector to the machines frame, both should be infinite ohms. If not then the element is grounded and cannot be controlled. Be sure to use bare metal when testing or Neutral if it is a 3 wire hook up.

If the element is OK, try swapping the motor and heater relays. I believe they are the same but double check this. If the unit starts up when you reconnect power to i, then the relay contacts are welded together and it needs replacing.

If the relays are OK then it could be a thermistor or a control board problem.
File Attachment(s):
62952100.pdf (292kb) downloaded 5 time(s).
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this_is_nascar  
#5 Posted : Monday, April 8, 2013 1:57:10 PM(UTC)
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this_is_nascar

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Thanks. I really appreciate the reply, however I'm not that good with troubleshooting, checking ohms, voltages, etc. If I wanted to just go down the path of replacing parts, which parts would you recommend I replace and in what order?
denman  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, April 9, 2013 4:23:47 AM(UTC)
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denman

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OK lets try to narrow it down without using a meter.

If it is a heater problem often you can see the problem, either the coil has sagged and is toughing the case or has broken and one side of the break is touching the case.

Pull the heater relay and see if it still heats up.
If yes, then I would replace the heater.
Note: This just checks one scenario of a grounded element so it does not totally eliminate the heater as the cause.
Swapping the relays also does not require the use of a meter.
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this_is_nascar  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, April 9, 2013 3:10:44 PM(UTC)
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this_is_nascar

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
OK lets try to narrow it down without using a meter.

If it is a heater problem often you can see the problem, either the coil has sagged and is toughing the case or has broken and one side of the break is touching the case.

Pull the heater relay and see if it still heats up.
If yes, then I would replace the heater.
Note: This just checks one scenario of a grounded element so it does not totally eliminate the heater as the cause.
Swapping the relays also does not require the use of a meter.



OK, thanks. I'm trying to find all the parts you mention in the parts store link you provided. I can't seem to locate all of them.
denman  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, April 10, 2013 1:46:20 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Heating coil AP2947033

Relay AP3037419

Thermistor AP3919451

Control Board AP4319168
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this_is_nascar  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, April 10, 2013 3:19:41 AM(UTC)
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this_is_nascar

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Heating coil AP2947033

Relay AP3037419

Thermistor AP3919451

Control Board AP4319168



Thanks. What about the Even Heat Control Assembly. On page-3 of the doc, it talks about Problem: Dryer Heats During Air Fluff/No Heat Cycle. My dryer is doing that as well. It talks about replacing the Heater Relay and the Even Heat Control Assembly.
denman  
#10 Posted : Wednesday, April 10, 2013 4:25:55 AM(UTC)
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denman

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The Even Heat Control is the same as the control board.

What they are saying is if the heater element is not grounded and the heat relay contacts are not welded together then this control board is activating the heat relay (48 volts across it's coil P3-1 to P3-2) when it should not.
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