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Blown thermal fuse elec dryer

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I keep blowing the high limit fuse. What I have done; cleaned dryer and vent lines, replace heating element and

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Old 03-29-2013, 12:22 PM
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Default Blown thermal fuse elec dryer
Model Number: 110 68932790   Brand: Kenmore   Age: More than 10 years   

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I keep blowing the high limit fuse. What I have done; cleaned dryer and vent lines, replace heating element and replaced motor about three months ago. The dryer with new thermal fuse kit will heat for a short period and then blow the fuse what could be the problem? I have ordered a new relay and thermistor but at a loss as to what is going on.

Any ideas, would reall be appreciated.


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Last edited by Lmf101 : 03-29-2013 at 03:19 PM.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2013, 04:40 PM
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Would a bad relay keep blowing the high limit fuse?
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:39 AM
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Which fuse is blowing?

There are two hi-limit fuses in the unit.
One on the blower (thermal fuse) and one on the heater assembly (thermal cut-off).
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:32 AM
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The one on the heater assembly. The one nearest the back of the dryer.

Last edited by Lmf101 : 03-30-2013 at 04:41 AM.
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:38 AM
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I do not believe this! I have now replaced the relay, and another thermostat kit and it blew the high limit fuse on the heater box again!! As mentioned before I cleaned the blower, the exhaust line and there is no obstruction to the air circulation. What could be causing this? Help!! as I am ready to just jump the high limit cut out!
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:07 PM
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See the attachment for your tech sheet

I am assuming that the hi-limit kit you installed included the thermal cut-off and the high limit thermostats.

Unplug the unit and both wires at the heater.
Measure across the heater, should be about 8 to 12 ohms.
Then measure from each heater connector to the frame, both should be infinite ohms.
Be sure to find a spot with bare metal and/or Neutral if it is a 3 wire hook up

The hi-limit thermostat should regulate the temperature so that the thermal cut-off does not blow but this will not work if an element is grounded.

Also you had said that you ordered a thermistor, did you also replace it?

Check all internal seals in the unit.
The hot air is pulled thru the heater then the drum (this is all therefor under a slight vacuum) and then pushed out of the unit.
A seal/air leak can pull in room air which the thermistor sees as cooler so it keeps the heater on.

You could also check the exhaust temperature, see page 5 of the tech sheet.
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File Type: pdf 68932790.pdf (164.6 KB, 10 views)
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:26 PM
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I do not know if this will help with the diagnostics, but as I do not have another thermal cut out kit, I jumped the high limit and ran the machine on permanent press and the heater element cycled from on and off. I do not like this but until another, 4th kit, arrives not many other options.

The thermistor has not arrived and maybe that is the problem. As before I have replaced the relay and the burner. Is it possible that the problem is in the board assuming there are no air leaks? If it is in the board I am off to Lowes for new machines.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:13 PM
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You cannot assume that the heater is OK, you have to check it. Then at least you can eliminate it as the cause.

PS- it is the most common cause of the thermal cut out blowing.

Also have you checked the air flow out of the unit?

The most common cause of the cut-off blowing is a grounded heater.
The temperature then cannot be regulated by the board so the unit runs off of the high limit thermostat. A symptom of this is that it will run hot on any temperature setting (low etc.). The contacts in the high limit eventually weld together and then the cut-off blows.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:35 PM
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Still waiting on new thermistor and thermal fuse kit, but today I inspected the heater and did as you instructed and did not find any continuity between the heater elements and the dryer. Would a bad thermistor cause my thermal cut out to blow? I am still using the dryer, reluctantly, with the cut out jumped.

Thank you for all the information and time you have given me.
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:19 PM
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You are welcome.
I just wish we could find the cause.

Yes a bad thermistor could be the cause.

When you replace it check that the heat varies with the settings, see the tech sheet. I would start with the lowest temperature.

Other than the thermistor the only other thing I can think of is the control board.
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