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-   -   bravobravo steam dryer won't start (http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/520816-bravobravo-steam-dryer-wont-start.html)

turbofreek 03-22-2013 03:23 PM

bravobravo steam dryer won't start
 
Just had my washer crap out last week. Now my dryer did the same. Wont start. Start button blinks when I push it to start. Thats it I checked all the components fuse, thermostat, motor windings. All check out ok. I replaced the main control and still the same. I got a motor now and checked the ohms and they are both the same. I don't know what to do here. Is my main board I got bad? Is it the motor?

turbofreek 03-22-2013 03:33 PM

Nobody wants to take a crack at this? Something to chase? I don't see any wire issues either. I'm a car guy by trade/obssession

turbofreek 03-22-2013 05:43 PM

I have power to the motor on both sides. Yet no start. By passed the door and belt switch. Still the same blinking start button.
Motor ressistance is 2.2 and 2.4. I did notice I have 110 across the relay. Shouldnt that be no reading if the relay is ingages?

denman 03-28-2013 03:24 AM

I cannot find any info on the given model number.
Please check it.

Also who manufactured the unit?

turbofreek 03-28-2013 06:02 AM

Medb800vqo

Its a maytag bravo.

denman 03-29-2013 03:08 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag MEDB800VQ0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

Try to get into diagnostics to see if an error code will come up.

I have power to the motor on both sides.

I am not sure what you mean by both sides.
Also where are you measuring and what is being used as reference (neutral etc) ?

Motor ressistance is 2.2 and 2.4. I did notice I have 110 across the relay. Shouldnt that be no reading if the relay is ingages?
Yes the NO to Common on the relay should drop to 0 volts when the relay closes. So either something is holding the relay off or it's contacts are shot.
I doubt that the new board is bad.
It is not unknown that a replacement board is bad but it is very odd that you get exactly the same fault on both boards.

turbofreek 03-29-2013 06:11 AM

It wil go into diagnosic mode. It gives no fault codes. It will go to COO and just sit there.

If a thermistor is bad wouldn't it still run for at least a minute? I've checked ohms at the board and at them. The one on the exhaust housing is 7k ohms.

As far as power st the motor. The two outside red wires. I get 110 from the top red to ground. I turned the dryer on so I could try to back track to where power is suppose to be. Why I came to the board being the culprit.

denman 03-29-2013 11:21 AM

It gives no fault codes. It will go to COO and just sit there.
I am not sure what COO means.

If a thermistor is bad wouldn't it still run for at least a minute? I've checked ohms at the board and at them. The one on the exhaust housing is 7k ohms.

Not necessarily.
It may monitor the thermistor resistances all the time.
The resistance does look low according to the chart.

The two outside red wires. I get 110 from the top red to ground.
This will be for the heater voltage.
You were probably looking at @M which is connected directly to L2 voltage.

turbofreek 03-29-2013 11:31 AM

Coo as in pre steps to co1 to start the service cycle.

And I was checking power to the motor.

denman 03-29-2013 12:16 PM

And I was checking power to the motor.
Not sure I understand the above.
The red (L2) is power to the heater thru the centrifugal switch mounted on the motor. It is not for the motor.

Power to the motor is
5M Neutral
4M Power (L1) thru the belt switch, thermal fuse and the control relay on the board.

turbofreek 03-29-2013 12:27 PM

I turned the dryer on to test power at the motor. Loking at thw dryer on top of the motor plug (the furthest from the base of thw cabinet. I had 120 there. I tried to measure across both red wires and got 120. I thought I should get 220? I inly have 120 across the element so also belived I was losin power at the motor. As I figured the other 120 was suppose to come from the motor to the element. Is that incorrect?

denman 03-30-2013 03:32 AM

the motor plug (the furthest from the base of thw cabinet. I had 120 there. I tried to measure across both red wires and got 120. I thought I should get 220?
Something is weird here.
Yes you should get 220 if the heater relay is closed but the motor is not running.
The L2 voltage is direct to 2M on the centrifugal switch.
L1 is connected thru the heater relay, thermostats and heating coil to 1M on the centrifugal switch.
Since the centrifugal switch is open and therefore there is no completed circuit path for the heater, the L1 feeds through the parts and should be at 1M on the switch.
When the motor starts, the switch closes, voltage across it drops to 0 volts and you then see 220 across the heater.

As I figured the other 120 was suppose to come from the motor to the element. Is that incorrect?
Sort of!!
It comes from the centrifugal switch that is mounted on the motor but not through the motor.
The heater circuit is L1 , heater relay contacts (on the board) , thermal cut-off , high limit thermostat , heater , centrifugal switch (1m/2M) , L2

With the same conditions as you measures the above, check the voltage at the terminal strip.
The reason is that earlier you said that you were measuring110 and 220.
Now you are seeing 120 so that L1 to L2 should be 240, both sides of the line should be equal.
So L1 and L2 to Neutral should be either 110 or 120.
L1 to L2 should then be either 220 or 240.

turbofreek 04-03-2013 03:33 PM

I get CO when I try to innitiate manual diagnostic mode. It will not do anything else afterwards unless I power it off. Then restart the sequences again.

turbofreek 04-03-2013 03:34 PM

I had a tech company come out and give up as well. He couldn't find what was the matter with it. Suggested the main board again. It can't possibly be that.


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