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Element Hot, no Spin No Blow

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Hope you friendly folks can steer me right with my Inglis IeS5000RQ1, Last moth I replaced the element, this week

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Old 03-17-2013, 06:51 AM
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Default Element Hot, no Spin No Blow
Model Number: Inglis IeS5000RQ1   Brand: -other-   Age: 5 - 10 years   

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


Hope you friendly folks can steer me right with my Inglis IeS5000RQ1, Last moth I replaced the element, this week it has malfunctioned again. The timer goes on and one can smell and feel that the element is heating up, but there's no other function. No Blower and no spinning. Wondering now if it's even fiscally sensible to repair the unit or replace it. Does any one know what could have failed this time?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2013, 09:39 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool IES5000RQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

The timer goes on

Do you turn it on or is it going on by itself?

The heating element may have failed.
Note: That the heater should not come on without the motor running. As you can see the motor has two centrifugal switches that activate when the motor gets close to operating speed. One of them is in the heater circuit and it closes, this ensures that the heater does not come on until there is air flow.
If it is OK then you probably have a grounded element.
Also a possibility that this switch is no good (always closed).

To check for a grounded element.
Unplug the unit and both wires at the heating element.
Measure across the element, should be 8 to 12 ohms.
Then measure from each element connector to the frame/Neutral, both should be infinite ohms.
If using the frame make sure you get to bare metal.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf IES5000.pdf (155.4 KB, 4 views)
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Old 03-17-2013, 05:12 PM
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so yes I turn the dial and you can hear the timer ticking away. The drum doesn't spinf and blower doesn't tune on. Infact there is no sound other than the ticking of the timer. I can spell the heating element heat up and eventually the rear side becomes very hot. I have to turn the timer to off or uplug the machine to turn off the heating element. I replaced the heating element last month and it worked fine until Friday when nothing works except the element
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Old 03-17-2013, 05:24 PM
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I does sound like a grounded element.
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