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At first the dryer did not heat. I tested continuity in heating element, high limit thermostat and thermal fuse. Thermal

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2013, 12:18 AM
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Default Red glow in dryer
Model Number: dle330raw   Brand: Amana   Age: More than 10 years   

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At first the dryer did not heat. I tested continuity in heating element, high limit thermostat and thermal fuse. Thermal fuse needed to be replaced. Once i replaced it, and cleaned out all the lint that was inside, it heated again. But now there is a burning smell. And after a minute or two of being on i open the door and there is a red glow coming from the back. Im positive the wires arent touching the housing. Could the heating element be defective even if it has continuity? If i replace it, should i replace the high limit thermostat as well? Thanks.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2013, 10:52 AM
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Red glow should be just the element. burning smell could be from the new element.
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manayer View Post
...I tested continuity in heating element...
Have you checked for continuity between each heating element terminal and the ground? If not then you have to do it too. Post the results.

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Old 03-14-2013, 06:46 PM
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Default Hay Gene this sounds like my prob too:

Replaced blown thermal cut off and blown thermal fuse. Checked continuity on operating thermostat and hi limit thermostat which were good. Checked ohm reading on element it was approx 10 ohms.
Dryer timer was ON with door opened when line power was turn ON via breaker, HOWEVER, element started to glow, obviously this was with no drum turning and no airflow due to door open. Next I closed the door allowing the air to flow.
With drum turning I checked amp draw with clamp on amp probe at one of the two element red leads and it was approx 27amps.
I DID NOT check continuity from element to frame for short circuit since the ohms read correct previously.
And if I remember correctly, when I checked voltage at element's two leads I got a reading of 124 volts, which I thought it should be 240ish....However, I don't remember at what point I checked this. Incoming power to dryer was 248 volts.
I did not have a schematic of this exact dryer until returning home. My thoughts are that the motor switch is supplying power on L2 ALL the time, and as long as the timer is ON thereby completeing the L1 circuit, the element stays ON. The dryer is located out of town, so I want to have solution and parts on hand when returning. Suspect: motor switch. Your thoughts and experience is appreciated.
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:00 PM
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There are two legs of power coming to the heating element. L1 (120 VAC) is coming trough the door switch and the timer. L2 is coming through the motor centrifugal switch.

The situation you described is VERY DANGEROUS! It could lead to a fire and burn you house to ashes!

You must stop to use the dryer and UNPLUG IT until it's fixed.

You have to check the heating element for the short to the ground, the motor centrifugal switch and the door switch.

We need the complete model number of the dryer for any further assistance.

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Old 03-16-2013, 06:48 AM
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Default Found model number:

110. 96374210
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:02 PM
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Thank you for the model number. Have you tested the parts listed in the previous post?

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