Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/4/2013(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
I have a ge dryer that is shutting off after about 2-3 min it is getting hot maybe too hot. I have checked all thermistors and safetys. I will list what th e multi meter read in order from top of heat element housing starting from the left side as you look at the dryers front:
T-Stat Inlet safety 0 ohms
Inlet thermistor 115k ohms
Hi-Limit 0 ohms
T-Stat Outlet back up org. 0 ohms
Outlet Thermistor 112k ohms
I belive that I have the correct names for each. I need to know what the correct readings are for each so I can get the correct part:confused: and if it is none of these I need more trouble shooting help:eek: !! Thanks!:)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/4/2013(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
I forgot to say that I cleaned and checked all vent ducts they are all clean and clear and getting great air flow.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Here are your parts Parts for GE DPSB620EC4WW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comIt is a GE so I will not be able to find any tech info (wiring diagram etc.) on it. Do you have the tech sheet. If not check in the control console to see if it is there. I am assuming that "shut off" means that the drum stops rotating. Your readings look OK to me. When it stops can you restart it right away? Or do you have to wait a while before it will restart? If you have to wait then the most likely cause is the motor over heating. It then trips it's internal thermal protect and you have to wait for the unit to cool down so the protect will reset. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/4/2013(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Originally Posted by: denman  Here are your parts Parts for GE DPSB620EC4WW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comIt is a GE so I will not be able to find any tech info (wiring diagram etc.) on it. Do you have the tech sheet. If not check in the control console to see if it is there. I am assuming that "shut off" means that the drum stops rotating. Your readings look OK to me. When it stops can you restart it right away? Or do you have to wait a while before it will restart? If you have to wait then the most likely cause is the motor over heating. It then trips it's internal thermal protect and you have to wait for the unit to cool down so the protect will reset. I don't have a tech sheet and there is nothing on the control console. The shut down is that the whole machine turns off but I can restart right away. After it stops when I open the door it smells overly hot. :confused: Found this diagram from managemylife.com was trying to get help on that site too and this is what they sent me for the wiring diagram. 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
I do not know if they monitor the thermistor readings and if they get out too far from each other the board shuts down.
Looks like they may us the hi-limit thermostat to power the motor.
Try an air only cycle.
Does it still shut down?
Is there heat? If there is heat then you probably have a grounded element
re: it has broken or sagged and is touching the case/frame in such a way that it is overheating the hi-limit.
The way to check for a grounded element is to disconnect and measure across it, they are usually 10 to 30 ohms. Then measure from each heater connection to the frame or neutral, both should be infinite ohms. If using the frame be sure to find a spot with bare metal.
This is for a 3 wire hook up with a 4 wire hook up you must check to the frame. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/4/2013(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Originally Posted by: denman I do not know if they monitor the thermistor readings and if they get out too far from each other the board shuts down.
Looks like they may us the hi-limit thermostat to power the motor.
Try an air only cycle.
Does it still shut down?
Is there heat? If there is heat then you probably have a grounded element
re: it has broken or sagged and is touching the case/frame in such a way that it is overheating the hi-limit.
The way to check for a grounded element is to disconnect and measure across it, they are usually 10 to 30 ohms. Then measure from each heater connection to the frame or neutral, both should be infinite ohms. If using the frame be sure to find a spot with bare metal.
This is for a 3 wire hook up with a 4 wire hook up you must check to the frame. Yes there is heat. Some elemnts are sagging a little but not in contact with metal. It is a 3 wire hook up. I would have to put the dryer back together again to run the air fluff would like to wait till everything is checked inside that can be before putting dryer back together if possible. When the dryer would shut off (turn off) it would sound the beep like the load was done but it would be hot in the dryer overly hot. I will check each element to make sure they are not broke.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
