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I've got a problem. First, a little background information. The dryer was in the middle of a cycle got extremely

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Old 10-02-2009, 09:39 PM
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Default Dryer heats but won't turn on
Model Number: RED4440SQ0   Brand: Roper   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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I've got a problem. First, a little background information. The dryer was in the middle of a cycle got extremely hot, like an oven to the touch, and stopped working. It would not come on. Thus, I researched and decided to switch out the hi-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off fuse, thinking that the the thermal cut-off fuse had blown. I was correct. After replacing these two parts, the dryer would heat up, but still would not come on. I am assuming it has something to do with the motor. Please if anyone knows what to do next, please help and give me some advice. I would greatly appreciate. Thank you for your time and efforts.

Justin Branscomb
Roper dryer model # RED4440SQ0


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2009, 03:46 AM
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To get to the heating element on most of these dryers you remove the back dust cover:
1. Hi Limit (small limit upper right hand side of this pic)
the most frequent problem if dryer RUNS but no heat.
2. Heater assembly. 7. Control thermostat(s).
5. Fuse(350F), if blown(open) the dryer will NOT run. 4. Heater element.
Lets look closer at that heater assembly:
The small limit on the top(300F) will blow if the duct is stopped up
The bottom fuse is its cousin(250F), they are partners in crime.
When one fails both are bad and both come in a kit. The dryer
will however run even if these guys are open(bad).
Clogged outside vent
You will need to bust the dryer open to get to all of the lint,
inspect the rollers and belt. Start by yanking out the filter.
Remove those 2 phillips screws in the top of the filter housing so you can pop the top.
Get the screws out that hold the front panel on. Important: lift UP the front panel to release the lower clips to prevent them from breaking! Get the drum out. Oil the rollers and idler assembly,
Vacuum it all out real good. Oil the Idler using non-flammable, high temperature
resistance, zoomspout oil. (ace hardware $3).
Here is a good shot of how the belt ought to look all propah like:
As you can see the belt goes between the idler . Insert the idler into the floor and yank
upwards, loop the belt through the idler and over the motor pully. This creates tension.
NOTE: If you have a friend hold the drum up for you while you install the belt it is much
easier. Be sure the belt is not twisted or when you start the dryer the belt will be cut in two.
Here is a pic of a princess dryer. This dryer by the way cannot be accessed from the
rear at all. You pop the bottom flap springclips to access the heater and limits.
The idea being convience of maintenence.
This dryer has more than one fuse.
Note the location of the various fuses. Some folk call this the DOT dryer.
Dryer of tomorrow. I call it the P. I .T .A. dryer. Go figure.
To get inside this one you flip the controls like a direct drive top load washer
You remove 3 hex head screws and slide the top towards you.
You back off or remove some screws below the door, remove the door springs
and then remove the screws up top that hold the inner panel to the frame.
This dryer has 4 wheels, 2 in front and 2 in back. The Idler is located to the
left and has to be routed blind with your arms.
This dryer has a moisture sensing wire that attaches right beside the filter.
It pays to know this because inevitably that dang wire will be a
problem if you do not make a note of where it goes when removing the front.

Here is a DOT dryer manual that features moisture sensing control.

Late model TECH SHEET FROM PC DRIVEN dryer with dot characteristics


Speaking of a manual, here is a standard Dryer Manual from Whirpool Corp:
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Old 10-03-2009, 05:49 AM
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Here is your wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%208528190.pdf

Having heat when the motor is not turning is usually caused by the following:

1.The centrifugal switches are activated. Can be dust or a mechanism failure.
You will see there are 2 centrifugal switches on the motor (6M/5M and 2M/1M) These switches are activated once the motor gets close to operating speed. One switch(6M/5M) switches out the motor's start winding as keeping it in circuit would cause the motor to overheat.The other switch (2M/1M) switches in the heating coil, this ensures that the heater does not come on till there is air flowing over it.
I would say this is the most likely cause. Since if 6M/5M is activated the motor will not start as the start winding is out of circuit but usually you can here a buzz from the motor.

2. A grounded element. If the element is touching the case it gets power from Neutral to one side of the line and heats without the centrifugal switch being activated, but this should not effect your motor starting.
The only way I can see this being your problem is if you actually have 2 faults re: a grounded element and half your line missing.
Check that you have the correct power 240 volts L1 to L2, 120 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral. Can also check the heater, remove both wires from the heater and measure it, should be around 10 ohms. Then measure from each side to the case/frame should be infinite (open).

PS: SublimeMasterJW, I did not realize that I had named my dog after a dryer Pita.
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Last edited by denman : 10-03-2009 at 05:53 AM.
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