[bugspray34]

So I can see the igniter glow, then it goes out. The thermal fuse went out and was replaced about 6 months ago. I pulled everything apart and did the following as posted elsewhere:

There are five major electrical parts involved in the heating process:

1. Thermal fuse
2. Cycling thermostat
3. Igniter
4. Flame sensor
5. Gas valve coils

How to find out which part causing the problem?

Pretty simple: all of these parts have to be tested for continuity in the above sequence.

The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter

If any of them is open – it has to be replaced.

If the thermal fuse is blown – it has to be replaced together with the cycling thermostat.

Gas valve coils also could be tested by resistance. There are two coils – one with three terminals and one with two terminals.
1. Coil with two terminals should have 1220 ± 50 Ohms
2. Coil with three terminals if held with terminals in upper position:
a) across the left and the middle terminals – 1365 ± 25 Ohms
b) across the left and the right terminals – 560 ± 25 Ohms

Everything checked out ok except the resistance numbers for the coil with 3 terminals. The #'s were different than shown above. I put it all back together and got it to work twice then it stopped again, only the glowing but no torch. I pulled it all back apart real quick and the left and middle terminals were open. By the time I pulled out the screws and pulled the coil, those 2 terminals was getting readings again.

Am I safe to guess this is the problem?

Thanks

[applianceman]

I would say replace both coils on the gas valve. When the igniter goes out the coils should open the gas valve at the same time lighting the flame. Most likely the coils. Gas Dryer Repair Guide

[SublimeMasterJW]

Feel the coils after they fail. The hot one will be the bad boy.