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Rhatcher  
#1 Posted : Friday, January 18, 2013 7:27:55 PM(UTC)
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Rhatcher

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Joined: 1/13/2013(UTC)
Posts: 10

Originally posted asking for help with removing front cover. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/515400-remove-bosch-dryer-front-panel.html#post794551
Now I’m troubleshooting the actual problem and am starting a new post with more descriptive subject line for people searching for similar.

Run Sequence:
00 Sec Press Start, drum turns
09 sec igniter lights
16 sec burner lights with a nice blue flame, ignitor fades.
in less than a min the flame starts to get a little orange in it and starts to diminish a little. The flame continues to weaken until it shuts off.
4 min 32 sec flame shuts off, gas smell
5 min 12 sec igniter lights
5 min 18 sec flame shuts off

The ignition sequence will repeat shortly and again the flame will shut of immediately.

If I run the dryer on air(no heat) for a minuet to cool it (and evacuate the gas) it will start normally and again run for about 4:30 before failing.


The dryer vent path is clear.

I have replace the Gas Valve Coils and thoroughly cleaned the vent path

From all of the other related posts It seems the gas valve is the next choice but i hate to replace it and find it is something else being it is the most expensive option.
It seems to me that this is a heat sensitivity issue. Something is breaking down after the area gets warm. Once the dryer cools completely it will start up normally.

The dryer is only two years old. There has always been a relatively loud buzzing noise when the gas is flowing. It reminded me a bad solenoid. Since this problem started we do not hear the buzzing. I’m starting to think something was wrong all along and whatever it was has finally bought the farm.

So one question is; was that buzzing sound normal? I had my previous gas dryer for over twenty years and never head that buzzing.

Also I have a tankless hot water heater that works fine and several other working gas appliances so I'm confident that the gas supply is good.

thanks for any help.
Robert
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Rhatcher  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, January 22, 2013 10:52:40 AM(UTC)
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Rhatcher

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Posts: 10

As I said in the OP
Quote:
From all of the other related posts It seems the gas valve is the next choice but i hate to replace it and find it is something else being it is the most expensive option.


after re-reading allot of posts and looking at information on the web i still think it should be the coils although I replaced them. how often are they bad out of the box? I have over 30 years of electrical/electronic/electromechanical (Navy) repair and have never recived a bad coil form supply. I would really like to bypass all the controls and supply power right to the coils, then manually ignite the burner, and then monitor the flame to see if it degrades. I would only need to keep it open for a minute. If the flame did not degrade as it has been doing, I would know it is not the gas valve/coils.

The problem is the limited tech information available. Its hard to determine which coil is which. For instance is the two wire coil The Secondary Coil, the Booster Coil or the Holding Coil?

thanks
Robert
Gene  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, January 22, 2013 10:23:58 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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Hi Robert,

You may want to order the gas valve from APP and give it a try. If it would not fix the problem, then you can return it.

- The gas valve Part number: 497069
Part number: 497069


Gene.
Rhatcher  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, January 23, 2013 5:30:02 AM(UTC)
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Rhatcher

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Posts: 10

Thanks Gene, Ill do that today. I was able to run the heating assembly independently last night and got the same results. That isolates it to the Gas Valve Assembly, ignitor and flames sensor. The sequence of events leads me to think that the ignitor and flames sensor are fine.
Thanks Again for your help.
Robert
Rhatcher  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, January 29, 2013 7:15:39 PM(UTC)
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Rhatcher

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Posts: 10

It was the gas valve.
A word of caution, the three screws that hold the gas valve in place are very tight, not exactly self threading but definitely a friction fit. while trying install the screws in the new valve I had to really get a grip on the burner assembly, changing my grip for each screw. On the last screw I reached around and squeezed the igniter, and heard a depressing "crack". Needles to say, I had to wait a few days for the igniter to come in.
Lesson Learned

And Gene, Thanks for all the help!
Robert
Gene  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, January 30, 2013 2:08:12 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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You are welcome Robert. I'm glad you were able to fix it. Good job!

Thank you for the feed back.

Gene.
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