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Dryer runs for a few seconds then shuts off

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When I turn my dryer on it runs for about 30 to 45 seconds the shuts off. It's not kicking

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Old 01-09-2013, 10:09 AM
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Unhappy Dryer runs for a few seconds then shuts off
Model Number: MDE5806AYW   Brand: Maytag   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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When I turn my dryer on it runs for about 30 to 45 seconds the shuts off. It's not kicking the breaker out. I replaced the pigtail (cord) as well as the recepticle. I even went ahead and replaced the wiring from the breaker box to the recepticle. And then I replaced the 30 amp breaker in my box. And it still shuts off. The vents have been cleaned as well I do this with the use of a lint lizard. I must also say that when the dryer shuts off. I can push the on button and it will turn right back on. And run a few seconds then shut off. Don't know what to do I'm at wits end here can anyone help?


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Last edited by dwaltrip : 01-09-2013 at 08:08 PM. Reason: I had to add something I left out.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:47 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag MDE5806AYW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Since you can turn it back on right away, it is not the motor overheating.

Have you tried different cycle types?
Heat/no heat and auto/timed.

Try running diagnostics to see if any thing pops up as unusual.

Could be that you have a bad/loose connection somewhere in the wiring/dryer.
Check that the connections at the terminal strip are all tight. It is the L1 (black) to the Neutral (white) that is the motor drive voltage.

Put some pressure on the door and try it. My thought here is that the door switch is just closing and when the unit starts to vibrate it opens killing power to the unit.

Check the connections at the control board to be sure they are clean, properly crimped and tight.
Check the connections at the motor and thermal fuse are good.

Check for bad solder joints on the control board. Cold solder joints are usually a duller silver color also they may have pin holes.
Gently wiggle the components on the board while looking at the solder side to see if a components leg move is the solder.
Check for hair line cracks across the copper tracks on the board.
A magnifying glass is helpful when checking the above.

Below is a bit of a jiggery pokery troubleshoot.
Unplug the unit and short across the motor relay contacts (PS7 to PS9).
Then plug the unit in
The unit should start up.
If the motor stays running then you know that your problem is probably on the control board.
Note that the above is something that I would do and do not recommend it unless you have some electrical experience as it is easy to get hurt when doing live tests.
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag MDE5806AYW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Since you can turn it back on right away, it is not the motor overheating.

Have you tried different cycle types?
Heat/no heat and auto/timed.

Try running diagnostics to see if any thing pops up as unusual.

Could be that you have a bad/loose connection somewhere in the wiring/dryer.
Check that the connections at the terminal strip are all tight. It is the L1 (black) to the Neutral (white) that is the motor drive voltage.

Put some pressure on the door and try it. My thought here is that the door switch is just closing and when the unit starts to vibrate it opens killing power to the unit.

Check the connections at the control board to be sure they are clean, properly crimped and tight.
Check the connections at the motor and thermal fuse are good.

Check for bad solder joints on the control board. Cold solder joints are usually a duller silver color also they may have pin holes.
Gently wiggle the components on the board while looking at the solder side to see if a components leg move is the solder.
Check for hair line cracks across the copper tracks on the board.
A magnifying glass is helpful when checking the above.

Below is a bit of a jiggery pokery troubleshoot.
Unplug the unit and short across the motor relay contacts (PS7 to PS9).
Then plug the unit in
The unit should start up.
If the motor stays running then you know that your problem is probably on the control board.
Note that the above is something that I would do and do not recommend it unless you have some electrical experience as it is easy to get hurt when doing live tests.
I tried the different cycles and I even turned the dryer door around and it still runs for just a few seconds then shuts down. Not sure at what I'm doing to test the other stuff you said to check. With what I've done so far do you think I should still do the other test on this dryer.?
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:14 AM
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Yes I would check them.
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
Yes I would check them.
If this don't work then do you have any idea what the problem could be?
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:50 AM
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Yes if everything checks out OK then I would say that the motor needs replacing.

But this is just a guess as the most likely.
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
Yes if everything checks out OK then I would say that the motor needs replacing.

But this is just a guess as the most likely.
Ok I crossed the short crossed the motor relay contacts as you said and the dryer ran for just a few seconds and shut off,like it has been doing from the get go. Do you have any idea's now? If you ask me and I'm not very good at this could it be in the switch you push to turn it on and off? Just asking.........!

Last edited by dwaltrip : 01-15-2013 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:22 PM
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If you ask me and I'm not very good at this could it be in the switch you push to turn it on and off?
Don't put your self down you have a difficult problem here that is not easy to troubleshoot. At least it would not be easy for me.

It will not be the push to start switch.
It is not part of the circuit when you short across the relay contacts.
The circuit is Neutral , Door Switch (Common to Normally Open contacts), ReD wire to 5 on the motor, the motor's windings, 4 on the motor, GraY wire to the Thermal Fuse, then to the board through the Motor Drive Relay contacts (PS9 to PS7), BlacK wire to L1.

My best guess is that the motor is shot.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
If you ask me and I'm not very good at this could it be in the switch you push to turn it on and off?
Don't put your self down you have a difficult problem here that is not easy to troubleshoot. At least it would not be easy for me.

It will not be the push to start switch.
It is not part of the circuit when you short across the relay contacts.
The circuit is Neutral , Door Switch (Common to Normally Open contacts), ReD wire to 5 on the motor, the motor's windings, 4 on the motor, GraY wire to the Thermal Fuse, then to the board through the Motor Drive Relay contacts (PS9 to PS7), BlacK wire to L1.

My best guess is that the motor is shot.
Can I ask you why is the motor running at least for the few seconds that it's running. My thought would be that if the motor is shot then the tumbler would not spin? (right)
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:08 AM
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I would think the same as you but you have checked everything else and all that is left is the motor.

There are a couple scenarios where it could be the motor.

First it could be that the run winding on the motor is open. The way the motor works is that when it is at rest the start and run windings are in circuit. When the motor gets close to operating speed the centrifugal switch is activated, this disconnects the start winding (leaving it in circuit would overheat the motor). The motor then runs on just the run winding.
Normally a motor will not start on only one winding but yours may be abnormal.

Another possibility is that the motor has a broken wire in it. The wire's ends are touching so it will start up but once there is some vibration the break opens shutting off the motor.

The motor is just my best guess!!
I hate guessing but in this case I cannot think of anything else.
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