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No Heat - Checked everything?

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Ok hoping someone has some insight. I've read the basic troubleshooting of an electric dryer, and it seems everything i've

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Old 01-07-2013, 04:23 PM
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Default No Heat - Checked everything?
Model Number: 110.86870100   Brand: Kenmore   Age: More than 10 years   

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Ok hoping someone has some insight. I've read the basic troubleshooting of an electric dryer, and it seems everything i've come across is ok.. Here is what i've done: Checked the outlet to the dryer-244vAc..heating element has roughly 11ohms resistance so it's good. The two sensors in the heating element housing have low resistance (.2 ohms i believe) so they are good (hi limit and thermostat i think?) the other switch (cycling thermostat maybe?) shows good with low resistance too. thermal fuse is good, again about .2 ohms. Now i've gotten two answers on what i'm refering to as a thermostat pre-heater. its a little black ring around what is i believe the cycling thermostat. I read about 3600ohms.. is that ok? one answer says yes one says no.. any ideas??


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Old 01-08-2013, 02:12 AM
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I read about 3600ohms.. is that ok? one answer says yes one says no.. any ideas??
Yes it sounds OK. It is as you suspected a hater and is turned on when lower heat settings are selected. It then adds heat to the cycling thermostat so it cycles more often resulting in a lower heat output.

Have you checked for 240 at the terminal strip in the unit? Could be you have a bad line cord.

Do you have the wiring diagram?
If not check inside the control console they often put it in there.
I cannot find one for this unit.

Your next step would be to check the continuity of the heater circuit.
The way you do this is to attach and leave it there, one meter lead to the L1 prong of the line cord.
Put the timer at mid cycle timed dry.
The usual path for the hearer circuit is a set of timer contacts, the hi-limit thermostat (on the heater), the thermal-cutout (fuse) (on the heater), the operating thermostat (on the blower), the heater element, the centrifugal switch on the motor and then L1.

If it checks out OK to both sides of the heating element then there is probably a problem with the centrifugal switch on the motor.
This switch closes when the motor gets close to operating speed. It is there so that the heater does not come on until there is air flow.

Note that the thermal fuse on the blower kills power to the motor and is not part of the heater circuit.
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:08 AM
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Ok i'm missing something here... one meter lead on L1.. which side of the line cord is that? I know the center is my ground/neutral.. and where is the other meter lead? on the heating element? if so i assume it doesnt matter which terminal? thanks
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:17 AM
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Ok i'm missing something here... one meter lead on L1.. which side of the line cord is that?
Not sure as it depends on the plug end. It is the black on the terminal strip so just measure from the strip to the plug prongs to figure out which is the correct prong.

I know the center is my ground/neutral.. and where is the other meter lead? on the heating element? if so i assume it doesnt matter which terminal?
Not sure I understand the above.
One lead goes onto L1 and stays there. The other lead is used to check the heater circuit in total. Component by component till you find the open in the circuit.

Since I do not have a wiring diagram I have to do some guessing so do not take the following as gospel.
First measurement to the Black on the timer (should be L1). It should measure 0 ohms.
Next the red on the timer. Should be a fairly heavy gauge wire as it carries the heater current. Should measure 0 ohms.
Next the high limit thermostat on the heater assembly. Both sides 0 ohms
Then the thermal cut-off on the heater assembly. Both sides 0 ohms
Then the operating thermostat on the blower. Both sides 0 ohms
Then the heater itself. One side should be 0 ohms. The other side should be 8 to 12 ohms (the heater resistance).

If all the above are OK then all that is left is the wire that runs from one side of the heater to the centrifugal switch, the centrifugal switch itself and the wire that runs from the centrifugal switch to L2 prong on the line cord.

Note: the motor has 2 centrifugal switches.
One is for the heater. it usually has 2 fairly heavy red wires.
The other is for the start switch by-pass and start winding disconnect. You do not have to worry about this one.

Attached is an example wiring diagram that might help you visualize how a dryer is wired. It is a total guess on my part so is just an example, your unit may be very different.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Example.pdf (125.0 KB, 1 views)
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:21 PM
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OK - so i did all the checks as you mentioned. After setting the timer to an active area all checks seem good.. L1 to black (.2ohms) L1 to red (.2ohms) L1 to high limit (.2 ohms both) L1 to thermal (.2 to both) L1 to operating tstat (.2) L1 to heater (.2 ohms) L1 to heater out (10 ohms) ...

so it seems i'm into this centrifugal switch assembley. I'm guessing this is on the motor and i need to remove the drum? What sort of testing goes on here? Also if you are able to post a link to the switch if i do need to purchase that would be great. thanks!!
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:56 AM
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so it seems i'm into this centrifugal switch assembley. I'm guessing this is on the motor and i need to remove the drum?
Yes tat i the easiest way to get at it.

What sort of testing goes on here?
Check that the motor/switch area is clean.
Check that the 10 ohm side of the heater to one of the wires on the switch is 0 ohms. Check that the other wire on the switch to the L2 prong on the plug is 0 ohms.
If OK then the switch is toast.
Your centrifugal mechanism on the switch is OK as it keeps running after you release the start button so we know the other switch is being activated.

Also if you are able to post a link to the switch if i do need to purchase that would be great.

The switch itself cannot be replaced, you have to replace the motor.
Click on the below for more info on it.
I would also check for wear/slop the rear support rollers, the front support glides, the belt, the idler wheel, the seals so you get an idea of what a basic overhaul will cost you.
Also sometimes the blower wheel will not come off the motor so you have to destroy it.
It may not be worth fixing.

Part number: AP3094245

Part number: AP3094245
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:15 PM
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boy, not looking good. i will tear into it probably over the weekend. the cost of a motor and wheel are kinda making it not worth it. if it needs more i doubt i'll do it for sure. If i were to buy a new one, do you have any pros/cons about brands? I see lowe's is selling fisher & paykel.. i was once told that is one of the best washers/dryers you can buy, but that was also by a salesman.. thanks so much for all the help!! maybe i get lucky and find a burnt wire!
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Old 01-11-2013, 01:49 AM
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Sorry but I do not give recommendations on replacement units.
If I did they would probably quit a week after the warranty ran out.

The only issue I have with fisher & paykel is the lack of technical info available for them. Also parts can be a problem.

I would recommend that you get a unit with as little electronics in it as possible. Simple is better than fancy as they have fewer things that can go wrong.
Also get one that uses rear drum rollers for support.
The units that use a single centered bearing are less reliable and also a pain to work on down the road.
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