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replaced internal bias now won't shut off when door is opened

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Thermal fuse blew due to lint build up, replaced it, dryer works fine. But knowing I should replace the interal

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Old 12-26-2012, 06:24 AM
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Default replaced internal bias now won't shut off when door is opened
Model Number: series 80   Brand: Kenmore   Age: More than 10 years   

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Thermal fuse blew due to lint build up, replaced it, dryer works fine. But knowing I should replace the interal bias operating thermostat (part 3387134) I ordered one as well from Amazon. Put the new one in, dryer works but won't shut off when the door is opened (drum keeps rotating). Tried wiring when door is open, door is closed. No difference. Put old one back in, dryer works fine. Tested new part for continuity on the larger outter terminals, its fine. Only thing I noticed is part which I received has two smaller terminals on the center cap, and one of these is loose (it drops back and forth into the housing and the black center cap is loose). Any thoughts? Thanks


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Old 12-26-2012, 08:32 AM
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First it sounds like you received a damaged thermostat. As for the dryer not stopping when you open the door: I would check to make sure your door swsitch is securely connected. If it is, you may also have a bad door switch.
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:42 AM
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Thanks-checked door switch, it checks out fine. Just don't get the connection between a faulty bias thermostat and the dryer continuing to run. Should have mentioned, won't shut off when you rotate the dial as well. Only shut off is unplugging it.
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:00 PM
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It's sounding more like a timer problem, now. Does it behave the same in all the dry cycles?
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:02 PM
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yes, any cycle it would keep running. But again, when I put the "old" part back, everything started to run again fine. Dryer shuts off when door is opened, or when you turn the timer to "off" like normal. Just don't understand what this new part could do to keep the dryer running.
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:32 PM
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Hi.

Check the resistance of the new and old thermostat heaters (small contacts). Set the meter to 1000ohm. Should be anywhere from 5600 -8400 ohm.

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Old 12-26-2012, 04:40 PM
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[quote=Simon / APP Team;790702]Hi.

Check the resistance of the new and old thermostat heaters (small contacts). Set the meter to 1000ohm. Should be anywhere from 5600 -8400 ohm.

tested the new one, nothing, nada. And now I noticed that one of the small terminals actually slides freely down into the housing, so thinking its not connected to anything inside...or worse its making contact with something it shouldn't inside...
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:02 PM
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Hi.

It's a weird case. I think that there is a short inside the thermostat - one of the bias heater contacts is shorted to the thermostat contact and this way the power to the motor is coming from the thermostat and not through the door switch.
Just replace the thermostat with the new one.

Simon.
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Last edited by Simon / APP Team : 12-27-2012 at 02:04 PM.
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